Whether you’re trying to drown out your kids’ raucous Mario Kart marathons in the den, cut out the traffic noise from outside, or quiet the pacing footsteps in the upstairs home office, insulation materials could help you reduce the noise level in your home.

But what’s the best insulation for soundproofing walls? Before we get to the bottom of it, we’ll explore some soundproofing basics, explain what to expect from the materials on the market today, break down some benefits of insulation for soundproofing, and provide a few elements to consider before heading to the hardware store for soundproof attic insulation.

Soundproofing: A Brief Exploration

Choosing the best soundproofing material for walls and ceilings requires understanding a few elements of soundproofing in general—what to expect from your materials, the types of sound you’ll be combating, and how materials are rated for soundproofing.

Soundproofing Expectations

Achieving 100% soundproofing in a room isn’t impossible, but it does require a big budget—the best way to attain blissful quiet and keep out any unwanted noise is to create a suspended space or a room within a room.

Suspended ceilings, floating floors, and decoupled walls are all used in recording studios, for instance, to create an envelope of “dead air” around the recording booth.

But, unless you have the budget and time to completely rebuild your home, you’ll have to rely on other methods, like adding insulation or replacing your windows. While these tools can work wonders, remember to set realistic expectations—they won’t eliminate 100% of the outside sound.

Types of Sound

While you explore soundproofing insulation solutions, remember to focus on the three kinds of sounds you’re trying to reduce:

• Airborne sounds – Car horns, conversations, and sound equipment all send sound through the air, creating airborne noise.
• Impact sounds – The sound of footsteps upstairs is partially caused by the vibrations of the materials in the floor/ceiling vibrating on impact—other impact sounds include the noise of falling toys, hammers, and slamming doors.
• Flanking sounds – Flanking noises are particularly hard to track down (and eliminate) because they travel through materials like ductwork and electrical outlets. If you ever tried to make a “phone” out of two cups and a string, you’ve experienced flanking sound firsthand.

Even the best sound insulation for walls won’t completely remove all of these kinds of unwanted noise (especially flanking noise), but they can dampen them.

STC Ratings

Sound Transmission Class (STC) is a numbered rating that indicates how effectively an entire product assembly—framing, drywall, insulation, dedicated soundproofing materials, and other components—resists the transfer of airborne sound. The higher the STC rating, the better.

The following list of STC ratings describes how audible loud speech would be from the other side of a wall for a particular value:

• 25 – Easily heard and understood
• 30 – Fairly heard and understood
• 35 – Sounds are audible, but not understandable
• 45 – Sounds are difficult to hear
• 48 – Sounds are hardly audible
• 50 – Sounds are inaudible

But remember that STC ratings only indicate a system’s effectiveness at decreasing airborne sounds. While high-STC materials should help dampen impact sounds, they may only slightly reduce flanking noise.

Insulation Options for Soundproofing

So, what is the best insulation for soundproofing ceiling and wall areas in your home and how do you install insulation in the ceiling? Let’s take a look at four types of products—batts, blown-in products, spray foam, and insulation boards/panels.

Batt Insulation

Batt insulation’s R-value (its ability to prevent heat transfer between surfaces) increases with its thickness (though not linearly). The same can be said for soundproofing ability—the thicker the batt, the more sound it will absorb.

Using 3 ½” thick fiberglass batt insulation in walls can increase the STC rating of standard wood-framed, drywalled walls (which carry a 35 STC rating) to 39. Depending on the level and types of sounds you’re working with, this could be negligible.

But using batts offers some pros:

• Batts are one of the most inexpensive insulation products.
• They’re simple to DIY with the right tools.
• They’re widely available on the market.

That said, it’s difficult to install batts in existing walls without removing all of the drywall on one side.

Blown-In Insulation

Blown-in fiberglass insulation achieves the same STC as its batt counterpart—3 ½” of blown-in fiberglass insulation is just as dense and thick, so you’ll still only achieve a 39 STC.

However, there are other blown-in insulation products on the market, the most common being cellulose. Using blown-in cellulose insulation in a standard wood-framed and drywalled wall or ceiling, you can achieve a substantially higher STC—44.

However, in many cases, cellulose can present numerous drawbacks for homeowners:

• Cellulose is dusty—and so is the installation process. Since it’s typically made from tiny pieces of recycled paper and blown in with a hose, cellulose is a dusty proposition.
• It’s more expensive than fiberglass, so it can present budget challenges.
• Cellulose settles quickly—this is less of a problem in horizontal application areas like attics and the spaces between floor joists, but settling in vertical spaces (between walls) can create coverage gaps that decrease both R-value and STC.

Spray Foam Insulation

There are two types of spray foam insulation:

• Open-cell – Open-cell foam is typically made from polyurethane, and when it’s applied to a surface, it creates air bubbles as it expands. These air pockets provide some sound-dampening properties, but open-cell foam only offers a 39 STC (the same as fiberglass) in a traditional wood-framed, drywalled wall.
• Closed-cell – Closed-cell foam is also usually made from polyurethane, but instead of filling with air, its expansion bubbles fill with gasses that are dissolved into the sprayed material during the manufacturing process. Air is generally more effective as a sound barrier than these expulsion agents, so closed-cell foam typically only offers a 37 STC in a framed drywall wall or ceiling.

Insulation Boards/Panels

Insulation panels, by far, offer the best soundproofing for walls and ceilings in residential applications—particularly highly dense products made from spun mineral wool and molten rock, like Roxul Rockboard.

Since these products are especially dense, they offer excellent sound-dampening capabilities. In products with densities between 6 and 8 lbs/ft3, STCs for traditional walls can reach between 45 and 52 STC.

However, these products have two drawbacks:

1. If you’re installing them in a completed home, you’ll have to completely remove the drywall on one side of a wall to install the panels and achieve full coverage (which is crucial for both soundproofing and thermal transfer prevention).
2. They’re some of the most expensive insulation products on the market today, averaging at about $1.75/ft2 (fiberglass batts range from $0.30-$1.50/ft2).

Benefits of Soundproofing with Insulation

The information above might not sound very promising—the best insulation for soundproofing walls is an expensive one, and the most affordable option could only negligibly increase STC. Why take the insulation route in the first place?

Some Noise Reduction is Better Than None

If you’re on a tight budget and your home is already complete, you might opt for blown-in fiberglass for both insulation and sound reduction. It’s the easiest to install in a home that’s already complete, and it’s affordable.

And the sound dampening you’ll achieve is still more than you’d get if you didn’t install any in the first place.

Decreased Heat Transfer

Even if you’re only looking for a soundproofing solution, insulation products are also useful for improving your home energy efficiency.

Full-coverage, high-quality insulation products installed in your exterior walls, interior walls, ceilings, and attic spaces can:

• Decrease the heat transfer between the outside of your home and the conditioned interior space, keeping your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer
• Isolate specific rooms in your home, which is especially useful for zoned HVAC systems
• Help decrease your energy costs—if conditioned air can’t easily escape from your home, your system won’t have to work as hard

Factors to Consider Before Purchasing Insulation Materials

Before you rush out to the hardware store for insulation materials, there are a few questions to consider:

• What will this project entail? – If you have old insulation, a history of pest control problems, or wall/ceiling surfaces that are difficult to work with (like plaster or brick), you’ll likely need more tools and materials than just insulation.
• How much is this going to cost? – Budget wisely and research the best prices before buying materials. Using an insulation contractor can help you achieve the best cost-effectiveness.
• Should I DIY this? – Insulation can be difficult to work with—and removing and installing new drywall isn’t a walk in the park, either. Consider consulting with the pros who have the experience, tools, and materials to get the project done right the first time.

Attic Construction: Transforming Attics for Over 10 Years

Soundproofing with insulation can be challenging, especially when it comes to finding the best soundproofing material for walls and ceilings.

If you’re looking for a professional to help with soundproofing, insulation installation, or attic cleaning, Attic Construction is ready to get your project started. We’ve been transforming attics for over a decade, and we have what it takes to meet (or exceed) your expectations for soundproofing and other attic services.

Plus, we offer complimentary attic inspections—reach out to us today, and we’ll get the ball rolling on your next project ASAP.

Sources:

1. Soundproof Central. Can You FULLY Soundproof a Room? The Facts vs. the Myths. https://soundproofcentral.com/fully-soundproof-room/
2. Better Soundproofing. Best Soundproofing Insulation for Noise Reduction. https://bettersoundproofing.com/best-soundproofing-insulation/
3. Soundproof Anything. Cellulose vs. Fiberglass Insulation for Soundproofing. https://soundproofanything.com/cellulose-vs-fiberglass-insulation-for-soundproofing/
4. The Spruce. What You Should Know About Blown-In Cellulose Insulation. https://www.thespruce.com/cellulose-insulation-basics-1821904
5. US Department of Energy. Types of Insulation. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/types-insulation
6. Home Advisor. How Much Does Insulation Cost?. https://www.homeadvisor.com/cost/insulation/

Whether you’re working on a new home build or making energy efficiency improvements to an existing house, you may be wondering how to install insulation in ceiling spaces—or if you should install attic insulation in the first place.

What options do you have for ceiling insulation products? Should you attempt a project like this on your own or hire an attic services professional? If you opt for DIY, which safety tools will you need while you work with insulation materials?

Our experts will weigh in on all of the above and more in this guide. If you’re looking to learn how to insulate a ceiling, read on.

Should You Insulate the Ceiling Between Floors?

Before we get into the how-to section, let’s explore an important question—should you insulate your ceilings in a two-story home? What about a building with multiple floors?

The US Department of Energy recommends that, for optimal home energy efficiency and HVAC system performance, homeowners should insulate:¹

• The floors of attic spaces
• Attic access doors
• All walls and floors of every finished attic space
• All exterior walls
• All interior walls bordering unconditioned spaces (e.g., between a bedroom and garage)
• All interior floors above unconditioned spaces, like:
  • Basements/cellars
  • Crawl spaces
  • Garages
• All band/rim joists

However, it’s important to note that:

1. Building codes don’t always require insulation in all of these areas.
2. Building codes, while generally similar, slightly differ from state to state; This also applies to roof insulation.

All of this said, insulating between floors is optional. But, keep in mind that:

• Band joist—the pieces of wood that border an entire joist network, usually forming a square or rectangular “frame” around a series of studs—insulation will provide some heat flow transfer protection for interior spaces.
• Insulating between floors can provide additional energy efficiency, sound dampening, and increased effectiveness for zoned HVAC systems.

In an ideal scenario, your home should be as insulated as possible—that includes insulating between each floor of your home.

How to Install Ceiling Insulation

Let’s break down how to install ceiling insulation between the floors of your home. The process will greatly differ based on the phase of construction your home is in, the types of attic insulation materials you’ll use, and the materials used to build your home.

New Construction Projects

The easiest way to insulate the space between floors, by far, is to complete this process while your home is still under construction. In most cases, you should start insulating when:

• All framing is complete, including:
  • Interior walls
  • Truss installation
  • Roof sheathing (since insulation shouldn’t be exposed to rain or snow)
• Electrical rough-in is complete, including:
  • Receptacles
  • Light switches
  • Outlets
  • Wiring (but the wiring doesn’t have to be hooked up yet)
• Early HVAC ductwork is complete, including:
  • Vent placement
  • Air handler placement (if the air handler is indoors)
  • Duct installation

Installing batt insulation between floor joists is most easily completed from above before drywall sheets are installed. However, blown-in insulation products may make more sense to install once drywall has been attached to one side of the floor joists.

Remember that some state building codes require batt, faced insulation to be stapled to the joists.

Home Renovation Projects – 3 Methods

If your home is already complete, and you’re adding adequate insulation between floors after the fact, you face additional challenges. But it’s not impossible—you’ll need to choose one of three methods.

Method 1: Total Drywall or Subfloor Removal

If you have the time and budget, completely removing either the ceiling drywall on the first floor or the subfloor on the second floor is the easiest way to access the area you’re trying to insulate.

You can remove ceiling drywall on the first floor by:

• Removing light bulbs, can lights, and hanging fixtures from the ceiling
• Using a hole saw to cut a preliminary entry into the ceiling between two joists
  • Use a stud finder or a strong magnet (which will detect metal drywall screws)
• Donning gloves, goggles, and respirators and separating the drywall from the studs with your hands (or with hand tools)

But, work cautiously—while using hole saws, hammers, and pry bars, avoid damaging HVAC ducts, wiring, and receptacles.

To remove the subfloor and work from above, you should:

• Remove all furniture from the room.
• Wear gloves, goggles, and a respirator while you pull up the flooring.
• Once the subfloor is exposed, use a cordless drill or impact driver to remove the screws connecting the subfloor material (likely plywood) from the floor joists.

Once the entire floor joist network is exposed (from either side), you can install your insulation product of choice (batts, blown-in, or spray foam).

Method 2: Cutting into the Existing Drywall Ceiling

If you’re not interested in removing and replacing all of your ceiling drywall, there is a workaround. But you’ll need more tools, time, materials, and expertise to take this route. Make sure you have:

• A hole saw
• A stud finder (or a strong magnet)
• Joint compound (sometimes called “mud”)
• A putty knife
• ½” or ¾” plywood
• Drywalls screws
  • Long enough to penetrate both the drywall and a ½” or ¾” piece of plywood
• A cordless drill or impact driver
• Room paint

For this route, you’ll need to use a blown-in insulation product. Here’s how to install it:

1. Using your stud finder/magnet, locate all of the joists.
2. With the hole saw, cut 4” holes into the spaces between joists (ideally, centered).
   • Keep the cutouts—you’ll need them to repair the wall.
3. Place an insulation hose into the hole, and blow the insulation product until the space is full.
4. Remove the hose, and cut 3” x 8” strips of plywood.
5. Insert a plywood strip into each hole, securing it with screws above and below the hole.
6. Replace the hole cutout, and attach it to the plywood using a drywall screw.
7. Cover each closed hole with a joint compound, let it dry, and apply a fresh coat of paint to the room.

There are two important things to note during this process:

• When feeding the rigid insulation hose into each hole, send the hose as far back as you can, start blowing, and slowly remove the hose as you fill the entire space between the two joists. If there’s an obstruction in the middle of the joist (like a duct), you may have to cut additional holes to achieve total coverage. Full coverage is critical to optimal insulation performance.
• Make sure to sink your screws flush with or past the drywall as you attach the plywood and replace the hole cutouts. This will ensure that the joint compound completely covers and hides the screws.

Method 3: Cutting into the Subfloor

This method isn’t unlike the one above. However, instead of cutting holes into the ceiling drywall, you’ll cut holes into the subfloor from above.

Again, you’ll have to use blown-in insulation for this method. And you’ll need the same materials as above, except for joint compound, a putty knife, and room paint.

The process is similar, too, but make sure to heed the note in the previous section regarding full coverage and the potential need for additional holes in the event of obstructions.

1. Remove the furniture and flooring from the second-floor area.
2. With your stud finder/magnet, identify the floor joists.
3. Using the hole saw, cut 4” holes into the subfloor (preferably centered between joists).
4. Insert the rigid insulation hose into the hole, filling the space between each joist completely.
5. Use the plywood method described above to reattach the hole cutouts to the subfloor.
6. Cover the subfloor with flooring material and replace the furniture.

Safety Tips for Ceiling Insulation Installation

While exploring how to insulate a crawl space ceiling, we would be remiss not to mention safety protocols.

Insulation materials are usually made from skin irritants like fiberglass or treated with pest-prevention chemicals that shouldn’t come into contact with your skin for prolonged periods. So, while you’re working to install fiberglass attic insulation, or other insulation materials, make sure to don your:

• Respirator
• Gloves
• Safety goggles or other eye protection

And, if you take any of the hole saw methods above, you may also benefit from ear protection. As always, make sure to turn off the electricity to your home anytime you’re using power tools to cut into or fasten objects to the walls or ceiling.

What Types of Insulation Are Best for Ceilings?

Installing insulation between floors while your home is still under construction allows the most flexibility for product choice. Since the area is still exposed, you can use batts, blown-in products, spray foam, or panel insulation to achieve your desired results.

And, if you’re pulling up the entire subfloor on the second story, you have similar options since you’ll be exposing the whole space.

But, if you opt for one of the hole saw methods described above, you’re locked into the blown-in method:

• Without access to the entire space at once, you won’t be able to insert batts or panels between every joist with full coverage.
• Spray foam also requires full visibility of the space being insulated. Unlike blown-in products, it won’t just fill the space where it’s sprayed—it will stick to the first surface it encounters.

Attic Construction: Quality Insulation Services in San Diego, Orange County, Phoenix, and Beyond

Learning how to install insulation in ceiling spaces can be intimidating—or even disheartening if your home is already complete. But rest assured that if you are looking for the best insulation for soundproofing walls or upgrading your insulation for energy efficiency purposes, there are experts willing to help you achieve your goals.

Seeking advice on insulation installation or attic cleaning services?

Look no further than Attic Construction. In 2011, we started an attic services brand that would deliver high-quality installation, excellent customer service, and expert product selection advice. Since then, we’ve been helping families throughout the southwest meet their home improvement aspirations.

If your attic needs an overhaul, reach out to us for a free attic inspection and estimate. We can’t wait to help you with your next project!

Sources:

1. US Department of Energy. Where to Insulate in a Home. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/where-insulate-home

Bad ductwork installation can impact homes old and new, decreasing quality of life and decimating the efficiency of your HVAC system.

What are the signs of bad air duct installation? How can you address potential HVAC problems resulting from poor duct installation or the resulting damage? Our experts are here to help.

High energy bills, poor indoor air quality (IAQ), uneven distribution of cooled or heated air flow, and mold and mildew issues can all indicate a potential ductwork problem. But, when it comes to mitigation, you might have to call in reinforcements and consider professional attic services. 

#1 High Energy Bills

One of the most telling signs of bad ductwork is a high energy bill. 

If you’ve recently installed new ductwork or replaced your whole HVAC unit, you should expect reduced energy costs—new HVAC equipment generally promises increased energy efficiency and, thus, lower power bills. 

But, if your electric bill is still through the roof after an HVAC replacement, bad ductwork could be the culprit, causing:

• Duct leakage, increasing the demand on your HVAC equipment to reach your desired temperature
• Poor circulation of conditioned air—some rooms might be ice cold, while others stay warm even if the thermostat is set at a low temperature
• Inefficient air intake at the return vents

All of these can make your HVAC system work harder to maintain your home’s temperature, increasing your energy demand and your costs. 

#2 Poor Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)

Indoor air quality (IAQ) describes the condition of the air both inside and around your home, particularly regarding your health and safety.¹ 

HVAC ductwork provides mechanical ventilation, replacing indoor air with outdoor air at an appropriate air exchange rate. But, if your existing ductwork is leaking or isn’t properly vented to the outside, your air exchange rate may decrease, reducing your IAQ as indoor pollutants become trapped inside. 

While you may think the primary role of an HVAC system is to condition your indoor air, it also plays a crucial role in maintaining IAQ, impacting the levels of pollutants like:

• Excess moisture
• Pollen or other biological pollutants
• Pesticides
• Fumes from household cleaning products
• Dust

If you feel like your home would benefit from an additional air filtration device, your existing ductwork may not be up to snuff. 

#3 Air Distribution Issues

A functional HVAC system should disperse conditioned air evenly throughout your home via well-sealed ducts. 

But, a common sign of a bad duct system is uneven conditioned air distribution, which can look like:

• “Hotspots” in specific areas of a room
• Rooms that don’t seem to get to or stay at the desired temperature
• Ineffective “zoning” functions promised by the manufacturer or installer

As briefly mentioned above, this issue places additional demand on your HVAC equipment, increasing your energy use and, therefore, your electricity costs. So if you notice a combination of both uneven distribution and increased costs, your ductwork might be the cause. 

#4 Mold and Mildew Odors

If your ducts are leaking or the attic vapor barrier isn’t well-sealed on the outside, condensation in the attic could build up on your ducts—especially in hot or humid climates.² 

While duct condensation might not be immediately noticeable (unless you see it happening in your attic), it can lead to moisture collection and increased humidity in your attic space, both of which can lead to mold or mildew growth. 

The following might be signs of mold or mildew issues in your attic:

• Unpleasant odors
• Spore growth on ceilings or walls
• Persistent indoor humidity
• “Thick” indoor air (or low IAQ)

If you’re experiencing mold or mildew odors in your house, it could be due to improperly installed insulation, which can lead to more negative effects. If you find yourself wondering, “can insulation make you sick,” read up on the topic to ensure you can prevent these risks with an experienced insulation installation expert.

You should take steps to eradicate mold or mildew growth as soon as you notice it—use a bleach solution when duct cleaning to kill the spores and prevent new sprouting. But you should also determine the source as an additional prevention method. So, make sure to check for leaks in your attic space and condensation on or in ducts. 

Benefits of High-Quality Ductwork Installation

When ductwork repair or installation is done right, you’ll reap benefits like:

• Peak system efficiency, which can reduce your energy costs and your carbon footprint
• Increased IAQ, a major element of your quality of life (especially for those with allergies)
• Evenly and effectively cooled spaces without any hot or cold spots
• Decreased likelihood of mold and mildew growth that can decimate your IAQ

But if you notice signs of bad ductwork installation, it’s important to take action as soon as possible. Take the following steps if you encounter a problem:

• Contact the original installer to see if your ducts are still under warranty.
• Contact the duct manufacturer to check for recalls or known performance issues.
• Reach out to a qualified attic services provider in your area for further assessment and professional mitigation.
  

Manage your Ductwork with Attic Construction

Bad ductwork installation can wreak havoc on your energy efficiency, IAQ, and HVAC system’s operation as a whole—all of which can significantly impact your quality of life. 

If you suspect a ductwork problem, it’s time to call in reinforcements. Attic Construction has been helping California homeowners tackle their most pressing attic concerns for over a decade, and we’re committed to quality work and customer service. 

In addition to ductwork services, we offer insulation installation and removal, rodent proofing, and attic-cleaning in Orange County, San Diego, and Phoenix —the services that keep your attic functional and safe.

Contact us for professional, timely, and high-quality attic services. 

Sources: 

1. US Environmental Protection Agency. Introduction to Indoor Air Quality. https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/introduction-indoor-air-quality 
2. US Department of Energy. Minimizing Energy Losses in Ducts. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/minimizing-energy-losses-ducts 

If you’re researching insulation options for your home, you’ve likely come across one of many product debates in today’s insulation industry—blown in insulation vs spray foam. 

Both products have merits and drawbacks, but how do you know which is best for your home? This guide breaks down everything you need to know about both products to help you choose the best option for your upcoming project. 

We’ll explore each type, describe what they’re made from, and discuss their advantages and disadvantages. We’ll also briefly examine cellulose insulation vs. spray foam and note other attic insulation options to consider for your project. 

Insulation 101

Before we get into the blown-in insulation vs. spray foam debate, let’s break down a few insulation essentials you should know while you shop.

Insulation is designed to prevent one or more types of heat transfer, which include:¹

• Conduction, or heat transfer between solids

• Convection, the transfer of heat between liquids and gasses
• Radiation, which travels in a straight line until it’s absorbed by a solid (like heat from the sun)

Insulation provides resistance against these types of heat—and its ability to do so is measured in resistance value, or R-value. The higher the R-value of an insulation product, the more effectively it can prevent heat transfer.

Why is it important to mitigate heat transfer in your home? Insulation plays two critical roles in your home HVAC system:

1. It keeps hot air from leaking into your air-conditioned spaces during warm weather
2. It prevents heated air from escaping into the attic during cold weather

While you can control your home’s temperature without it, insulation helps you manage your home climate efficiently—instead of overworking your HVAC system and racking up a large energy bill. 

Spray Foam Insulation

First, let’s dive into spray foam insulation—one of many insulation materials on the market today. Spray foam is available in various material types, each with its own set of pros and cons. 

Spray Foam Insulation Materials

Foam insulation can be applied in a few different ways—it can be:²

• Sprayed
• Poured
• Injected
• Foamed-in-place

In this section, we’ll focus on spray applications. While insulation installers can spray a variety of materials, two kinds of foam are the most common:

• Closed-cell foam – is made of high-density cells and filled with gasses that help the cells expand, fill small spaces, and harden into a durable coating. 
• Open-cell foam – isn’t as dense, and it doesn’t feature the expansion and hardening gasses that are found in closed-cell foam. Instead, the expanding cells fill with air, creating a sponger insulation texture. 

Both open- and closed-cell spray foams are typically made from polyurethane, but less common materials include Icynene and Tripolymer foams. 

Benefits of Spray Foam

Spray foam offers many benefits:

• Spray foam is an air barrier. Since it can expand even into small spaces, it can completely block air flow where it’s applied. 
• You can use it in small, canned quantities for a variety of home improvement applications, like filling gaps in window and door frames. 
• It generally offers a higher R-value than batt or blown-in insulation, even at the same thickness or less. 
• Like blown insulation, it can fill tight spaces or obstructed areas, like joists near an air handler or other HVAC equipment.
• Some spray foam products (but not all) feature fire retardant properties that can help reduce or prevent fire damage. 

Drawbacks of Spray Foam

But, there’s no perfect insulation product—spray foam insulation certainly has drawbacks:

• Applications – While closed-cell foam can be used in various locations, open-cell foam isn’t always appropriate for humid climates or applications below ground level. The air-filled cells easily absorb water, which can drastically degrade the insulation’s effectiveness. 
• Cost – Both open- and closed-cell spray foam insulation are some of the most expensive insulation options on the market today. It requires specialized equipment to install and sometimes special installer certifications (depending on the specific product).
• Building code recognition – While most building codes in the US recognize spray foam insulation as an insulation product, many don’t recognize it as a vapor or fire barrier. In these jurisdictions, builders must also install additional flame retardant and/or vapor barriers to pass inspection.

Depending on your budget, intended applications, and local building codes, spray foam insulation might not be the right fit for your next project. 

Blown-In Insulation

Now that we’ve broken down spray foam insulation, let’s jump into blown-in insulation. Like its competitor, it’s available in various materials and has its own set of benefits and drawbacks.

Blown-In Insulation Materials

Blown-in insulation (sometimes called loose-fill insulation), must be applied using specialized insulation technology, just like spray foam. An insulation installer uses advanced blower technology to apply small insulation particles to a space in a full-coverage layer that’s a consistent thickness throughout. 

Three different materials can be used in blown-in insulation applications, and they all feature some level of eco-friendliness:

• Fiberglass is the most common insulation material on the market today, and it’s typically made from 40-60% recycled glass.
• Mineral wool is losing traction in the insulation industry, and it’s not used as often today as it was in the past. It’s typically made from rock or slag recycled from industrial operations.
• Cellulose is made from tiny paper fibers—usually recycled newsprint. While the performance of cellulose vs fiberglass insulation are comparable, installing it is a dusty proposition. 

All About Cellulose

So, what is cellulose insulation and how does it compare to other insulation types? Let’s explore a more specific debate—cellulose insulation vs. spray foam. 

Cellulose insulation can seem like an attractive option for homeowners looking to decrease their home energy use. Cellulose is eco-friendly (since it’s made from recycled material like newsprint), it’s only available as a blown-in product (so it can fill small nooks and crannies), and it offers comparable R-values to fiberglass insulation.³

But, it has three major drawbacks:

1. It’s typically more expensive than fiberglass despite offering a similar R-value.
2. It’s incredibly dusty to install, creating a potential health hazard to installers.
3. It’s more prone to mold growth and water absorption than fiberglass. 

In terms of performance alone, spray foam insulation exceeds cellulose r value per inch. But, cellulose is markedly cheaper than both open- and closed-cell foams, and both are more expensive than fiberglass, which performs well, is durable, and is simple to install.

Advantages of Blown-In

Blown-in insulation (in any of the three materials listed above) does offer a few advantages:

• Since it’s blown in, it can fill small gaps and hard-to-reach areas, like spray foam.
• It’s available in fiberglass, the most commonly used insulation material.
• It’s more cost-effective than spray foam and (depending on the material used) can fulfill a wider range of applications.

Blown-in insulation is versatile, eco-friendly, and economical—especially compared to spray foam insulation. 

Disadvantages of Blown-In

But, like spray foam, blown-in insulation also has drawbacks:

• Specialty equipment demands – Blown-in insulation requires specialized blower equipment and installers trained to use it. This can sometimes lead to increased labor costs or hamper DIY insulation installation efforts. 
• Settling – Like many insulation products, blown-in insulation settles with time. When a product settles, the size of the air pockets between particles decreases, which can also decrease the R-value of a product. Some materials settle more dramatically than others—cellulose is particularly prone to settling issues. 
• Compression – Compression is similar to settling, but it’s more avoidable. When you step on your insulation or store boxes on top of it, the weight can tamp down the insulation, reducing the size of air pockets (and, thus, the R-value). Since blown-in insulation can be applied to joists in an attic space (instead of between them, like batts), it’s harder to avoid stepping on them while walking in your attic.

Which Insulation Type is Right for Your Home?

If you’re unsatisfied with both sides of the blown-in insulation vs. spray foam debate, rest assured—they aren’t your only insulation product options. 

While we covered two of the three application methods (spraying and blowing in insulation), one remains—batts, also called blankets or rolls. 

Batts are available in a variety of material types, but fiberglass and mineral wool are the most common. And, with the decrease in mineral wool availability, you’re most likely to encounter fiberglass batts in residential applications. 

There’s a lot to think about when choosing an insulation product, but remember to consider:

• Your home’s overall condition – If you’re replacing the insulation with no plans to fix the leaks in your HVAC system, roof, or windows, you may have bigger fish to fry in pursuit of lower energy use.
• Your budget – Not every budget can accommodate the most expensive products with the highest R-values. Instead of going over budget, savvy homeowners should choose the best product in their price range and focus on installing it well. 
• Your local climate – Some insulation products simply aren’t suited to wet or very cold environments. Ask an insulation expert for advice on choosing the best product based on your local conditions. 

Attic Construction: Meeting Your Insulation Needs since 2011

There are countless combinations of insulation types and materials available today—so, how can you pick the best one? 

Consult with insulation professionals from Attic Construction. For over a decade, we’ve been helping homeowners choose the best possible insulation products, prevent pests, and get their attics shipshape. When it comes to improved quality of life and reduced home energy use, we’re the brand of choice for insulation installation, air duct repair, rodent  proofing, and attic cleaning in Orange County, Phoenix, and San Diego. We can’t wait to help you transform your attic, improve your temperature regulation, and increase your home’s value. 

Sources: 

1. US Environmental Protection Agency. Insulation. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/insulation 
2. US Department of Environmental Protection. Types of Insulation. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/types-insulation 
3. HomeAdvisor. Comparing the Pros and Cons of Cellulose and Fiberglass Insulation. https://www.homeadvisor.com/r/cellulose-vs-fiberglass-insulation/ 

Suppose you’re looking to decrease your home energy bill or increase your home’s value before putting it on the market. In that case, you might consider replacing your home’s existing insulation or installing an insulation product for the first time. 

You have numerous options to consider when choosing the perfect insulation type for your home—one of which is cellulose. But, what is cellulose insulation? Is it the best choice for your home’s age, your budget, and the longevity you’re seeking? 

In this guide, our expert team will break down everything you need to know about cellulose insulation. We’ll cover some basic details about attic insulation, what cellulose is made from, the different types available, the installation process, R-value information, and pros and cons. We’ll also touch on the other options you’re likely to encounter in your search for the best product. 

How Does Insulation Work?

Insulation products reduce one or more of the three different types of heat flow:¹

• Conduction – Conductive heat flows through solid materials. A hot cup of coffee transfers heat from the outside of the cup and into your hand, for example. 
• Convection – Convection describes the way heat moves through liquids and gasses. When you turn on your furnace in the winter, hot air flows through your vents into the various rooms in your home via convective heat flow.
• Radiation – Radiant heat moves in a straight line until a solid object in its path absorbs the heat energy—like rays from the sun warming your skin.

Insulation provides resistance against heat flow—it prevents heat from escaping into your attic in the winter and hot air in the attic from infiltrating your air-conditioned spaces in the summer. 

All About Cellulose

Cellulose insulation is one of the many products that provide convective and conductive heat resistance in your home. Let’s break down everything you need to know about cellulose. 

Cellulose Insulation Materials

Cellulose is made from paper fibers that have been chemically treated to:²

• Help the fibers stick together
• Prevent compression and settling
• Deter pests
• Increase heat resistance

In most cases, cellulose fiber is made from recycled paper materials—newsprint is the most common. 

While you might be visualizing shreds of paper, cellulose insulation has more of a pulpy texture since it’s made from very small paper particles. So, installing it can be a dusty proposition. 

But, if laid at the appropriate thickness, the small paper fibers in cellulose insulation can stick together and pack closely enough to provide additional heat resistance. And, since it’s made from recycled paper, cellulose is a relatively sustainable insulation material.

Cellulose Insulation Types

There are a few different types of insulation products (which we’ll explore in more detail in a later section), but cellulose insulation only comes in one form—blown-in insulation, also called loose fill insulation.³ 

What is blown-in insulation?

• During installation, insulation professionals use specialized blower equipment to “spray” insulation fibers onto a surface or into a space—the areas between the joists on your attic floor, for example. Although the insulation is being sprayed, blown-in insulation vs spray foam is a much different process. 
• Instead of scattering it by hand or rolling it out onto a surface, blowing in the product allows installers to apply the product at an adequate thickness and cover surface areas completely—even nooks and crannies.
• Blown-in insulation isn’t always made from cellulose. Fiberglass and mineral wool insulation products can also be blown-in. 

Keep in mind that blown-in insulation isn’t a perfect solution. It’s still susceptible to wear and tear, settling, and compression:

• Normal wear and tear – All insulation products naturally degrade over time—no matter how they were installed or what they’re made from. Like most other building materials, they should be replaced when their condition no longer makes them effective.
• Settling – Insulation materials settle over time, whether they’re blown-in, sprayed, or rolled out. Gravity causes the spaces between insulation particles to decrease as the particles on top slowly droop. While it’s completely normal, it can sometimes decrease the R-value of an insulation product (we’ll discuss R-values in an upcoming section).
• Compression – Compression is most common in attic spaces. Whenever you step on your insulation or place an object on top (like a box of holiday lights or winter coats), the insulation material compresses under pressure. Like settling, this can decrease the R-value of your insulation.

Installing Cellulose Insulation

How do insulation professionals install cellulose insulation? 

1. After donning their protective gear, they remove all the old insulation (if applicable), storage boxes, pest debris, and dirt from an attic space to prepare for installation.
2. They create a clear path from the attic hatch (or the installation access point) to the main door they’ll use for moving equipment, workers, and materials.
3. They transport the necessary equipment to the installation access point. 
4. They use a specialized blower to distribute cellulose in an even, consistent layer in an attic space, between stories, behind walls, or underneath the ground floor of a space. 
5. They review the entire insulated area, ensuring that every inch of the surface has been covered with cellulose and that it’s the right thickness throughout. 

It’s important to note that, since cellulose requires specialized equipment to install, it’s difficult to DIY. In addition, since cellulose insulation creates significant dust during installation and it’s chemically treated with a  fire retardant chemical, installers must wear masks, gloves, and other critical safety equipment during the process. 

Cellulose Insulation R-Value

R-value is a unit of measurement that describes how effectively a material resists heat flow.⁴ To calculate R-value, insulation product manufacturers use the following formula:

Temperature (°F) x hours of exposure x square feet/BTU (British Thermal Units) = R-value

A higher R-value generally indicates higher resistance to heat transfer. But, it’s important to note that R-value is not directly proportional to insulation thickness—thicker layers don’t necessarily feature higher R-values. 

In addition, cellulose insulation R value isn’t the only factor to consider when choosing an insulation product. Before selecting a type and material, think about:

• The age of your home – Insulation will decrease your home energy bill, but it also works in tandem with other systems to prevent heat transfer. If you live in an older home with an aging HVAC system, damaged or degraded building materials, or roof leaks, the R-value of your insulation product will matter less than the general disrepair of your home. 
• Your budget – You might not be able to afford the insulation product with the highest R-value. You should choose the best insulation product in your price range and that’s appropriate for the application. 
• Product longevity – Insulation is exposed to normal wear and tear, but different products respond differently to typical aging. Even products with high R-values can lose R-value as they degrade—some more quickly than others.
• Placement and applications – If you install a high R-value insulation product in your attic and then compress it all with storage boxes, you may have defeated the purpose of installing a high-resistance product. Choose the option that works best for your specific applications. 

Advantages of Cellulose 

Cellulose insulation certainly has advantages:

• It’s a dense product, so it generally provides high heat resistance.
• Blown-in insulation is useful in most application areas.
• It’s sustainably made from recycled material and organic matter.

But, do these advantages outweigh the disadvantages?

Disadvantages of Cellulose

Cellulose is far from a perfect product:

• It produces significant dust during installation, which can create a mess and possibly be a hazard for installers, without the proper equipment. 
• It requires specialized equipment to install, so it’s less DIY-friendly than its batt insulation counterparts.
• It’s prone to settling and compression, which can decrease its R-value.
• Cellulose vs fiberglass batt insulation (one of the most widely-used insulation products on the market) is more expensive. 

How Does Cellulose Compare to Other Insulation Types?

Cellulose might not be the best product choice for your home. But, what are your other options?

There are two insulation types available for home applications:

1. Blown-in insulation
2. Batt (also called blanket or roll) insulation

Batt insulation is sold in pre-cut rolls that installers place between floor joists, trusses, and wall studs. It comes in standardized widths for simple installation.

Cellulose is only one of a few insulation materials on the market today:

• Fiberglass insulation is the most commonly used material for residential insulation applications
• Spray foam insulation is similar to blown-in insulation, but it uses a liquid foam product
• Mineral wool insulation  is becoming less common, but it’s available in batts or loose-fill

Each of these insulation types and materials has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Still, there’s a reason why fiberglass batts are used so widely in residential applications—it’s cost-effective, long-lasting, and time-tested. 

For many applications, it’s a better choice than cellulose insulation:

• It doesn’t create dust during installation.
• It’s less prone to mold and mildew growth than cellulose.
• It’s available in both loose-fill and batt types.
• It’s generally less expensive than cellulose.

But, as we noted above, the other systems in your home are just as important as your insulation for reducing your energy costs and use—make sure your HVAC system, your exterior cladding components, and interior building materials are all ship-shaped to optimize your home energy use. 

Insulate Your Home with Confidence: Choose Attic Construction

Cellulose insulation might be a good choice for your home—but, it’s not the only choice. 

So, how do you choose the best possible insulation product? Consult with a team of experts like those at Attic Construction. We’ve been providing attic services—like cleaning, insulation removal and replacement, and rodent-proofing—since 2011, and we’re the brand of choice for attic cleaning in Orange County. 

Our commitments to quality work and customer service have followed us for over a decade, and we’re just getting started. We can’t wait to help you make your home the best it can be. 

Sources: 

1. US Department of Energy. Insulation. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/insulation 
2. HomeAdvisor. Comparing the Pros and Cons of Cellulose and Fiberglass Insulation. https://www.homeadvisor.com/r/cellulose-vs-fiberglass-insulation/ 
3. US Department of Energy. Types of Insulation. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/types-insulation 
4. ScienceDirect. R-Value. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/r-value