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Breaking Down Crawl Space Insulation Cost

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Insulation. No Comments on Breaking Down Crawl Space Insulation Cost

Nailing down crawl space insulation cost can be difficult. Many factors, including the square footage of insulation required, type of insulation you’ll be using, and whether you’ll be having it professionally installed will all impact the cost of your crawl space insulation. Additionally, you’ll need to have your crawl space cleaned out and any old insulation hauled away, which may also impact the final cost. Consider using a crawl space cleaning service to help you get rid of mold, old fiberglass insulation or foam and start with a new crawl space foundation! 

The best way to understand how much it will cost to insulate the crawl space in your home is to have a professional appraisal done. However, before your appraisal, it’s important to understand what factors affect the cost of crawl space insulation. While things like the size of your house will have a big impact on the final cost of your project, you should also be aware of other common issues like the presence of mold or water damage that can increase expenses. Understanding these issues can help you gain a better idea of the potential scope of your project before you dive in with an insulation contractor.

What is a Crawl Space?

A crawl space is a type of foundation used in many parts of the country when other foundation types, such as slab-on-grade or a basement, are either less desirable or cost-prohibitive. There are three types of crawl spaces; open, unvented, or a ventilated crawl space. It is important to know which type of crawl space you have before moving forward with the insulation process. Crawl spaces may be an advantageous foundation type when:

  • There is excessive moisture present, 
  • The soil is sandy which is common in coastal areas, 
  • Or when the freeze-thaw cycle poses a threat to other foundation types like slab-on-grade.

Crawl spaces create a gap between the ground and the first floor of a home. The ground in the crawl space may be covered with a vapor barrier, or may simply be dirt or gravel. Above the ground is a gap, usually between 1-3’, before the subfloor of the home.

A core advantage of a crawl space over other foundation types is that you’ll have easy access to core mechanical systems of your home. These include things like your HVAC ducting, electrical, plumbing and insulation, which typically would require extensive work to access in homes with other foundation types.

How Are Crawl Spaces Insulated?

There are different ways to set up a crawl space, and those design decisions can have a big impact on the air quality of your home as well as how well or poorly your home deals with moisture. At the center of these decisions are where to place a foam or fiberglass insulation and create a vapor barrier.

There are three broad categories of crawl spaces: vented, unvented, and open. Let’s take a look at each in greater detail.

  • Vented – Vented crawl spaces are the most common type seen in many parts of the country. These crawl spaces have vents that passively circulate air with the outside. In a vented crawl space, the insulation is typically installed at the subfloor, in between the floor joists. This leaves the crawl space itself uninsulated, and everything from the subfloor and above is in the conditioned space of your home.
  • Unvented – Unvented crawl spaces are less common but can have a number of advantages over vented crawl spaces. Unvented crawl spaces are best thought of as a mini-basement. In unvented crawl space, insulation is typically installed along the walls of the crawl space rather than at the subfloor, while the ground is covered in a moisture barrier and may have some type of flooring. The most important distinction is that an unvented crawl space is considered part of the conditioned space of your home, and no longer passively exchanges air with the outside.
  • Open – Open crawl spaces are completely open to the outside. Typically surrounded only by lattice fencing or wire mesh, open crawl spaces achieve significantly more air circulation with the outside than even vented crawl spaces. These types of crawl spaces are less common than vented, but they do eliminate some of the moisture issues that can arise with a vented crawl space.

Though vented crawl spaces are more common, research has shown that they tend to perform more poorly than unvented crawl spaces. This can lead to a need for crawl space repair in the future. However, the advantages of an unvented crawl space include:

  • Higher energy savings
  • Less fluctuation in temperature
  • Less moisture and mold
  • More durability
  • Better air quality

The key problem with traditionally vented crawl spaces is that they were often installed without much regard to how moisture could affect the house over time. In houses with traditionally vented crawl spaces, the temperature of the ground and air in the crawl space is a few degrees cooler than the outside. During summer months the warmer outside air enters the crawl space and begins to cool. As it cools the moisture in the air forms condensation. In most traditionally vented crawl spaces that moisture forms on the underside of the subfloor, on and below the insulation and floor joists.

Over time the condensation forming in your crawl space will lead to enormous issues. Water left on wood will begin to form mold, and wet insulation will begin to perform more poorly. Additionally, the water will wick upwards deeper into the subfloor, potentially damaging your flooring.

Recognizing and managing the moisture that comes with vented crawl spaces is essential. Too often homeowners ignore their crawl space, which allows moisture to build up, mold to form, and damage to their insulation, subfloor, and flooring to occur. Consider adding in a moisture barrier to your crawl space to prevent these issues from arising quickly.

Crawl Space Insulation Cost Break Down

Here are the top factors that will influence the cost of replacing your crawl space insulation. These include:

  • Square footage of your crawl space.
  • Type of insulation used.
  • Whether your crawl space is vented or unvented.
  • Removal of old insulation.
  • Mold, water damage, or pest damage cleanup and remediation.
  • Cost of a vapor barrier and installation.
  • Labor.

So how much does crawl space insulation cost? The best way to find out is to have an inspection done by an insulation contractor and get a quote. The costs will vary depending on the type of insulation used. Fiberglass batt insulation tends to be more common and cheaper, while foam insulation tends to be less common and more expensive.

If your crawl space was set up correctly and no moisture damage or mold growth is present, replacing your crawl space insulation can be a relatively low-cost method of improving the energy efficiency of your home. 

However, costs will be higher if water damage or mold growth needs to be repaired. One issue with water damage in crawl spaces is that it can lead to cascading repairs. As the water wicks upward it damages the subfloor and eventually will impact your flooring. Buckled or discolored flooring is very often the first sign of a problem for many homeowners that don’t have their crawl space cleaned and inspected regularly. A crawl space repair may add to the overall cost but is a necessary step before starting new. 

The best way to avoid those negative outcomes is to have your crawl space regularly inspected and cleaned. A professional crawl space inspection can quickly give you a good idea about the current state of your crawl space. If it’s been neglected, an inspection will give you a good idea about what needs to be addressed and what the potential cost of that project might be. 

The Importance of Professional Installation

Though there are many DIY projects around a home where it can be financially beneficial to do the labor yourself, you should strongly consider having your crawl space insulation professionally installed. Professional crawl space insulation installation cost tends to be worthwhile even if you are handy or inclined to do the work yourself. 

Here’s why:

  • Most crawl spaces weren’t originally designed with sufficient moisture protections in place. In order to protect the durability of your home and the health of everyone living in it, it’s critical to ensure moisture mitigation and management measures are put into place during the replacement process. This may include using a vapor barrier or even converting your vented crawl space into an unvented, conditioned crawl space. Understanding the best option for you will require professional consultation with experts that understand crawl spaces.
  • Professional installers know that any air gap in the vapor barrier will result in damage down the road. That’s why great care is taken to ensure that an intact vapor barrier is maintained to protect your insulation and subfloor for years to come. Consult with a professional to insulate crawl space walls and floors to ensure proper measures are taken.
  • Existing water damage or mold growth will need to be identified and remediated before progressing further. Not doing so will simply seal in the moisture, negatively impacting the air quality in your home and resulting in even larger repairs down the road.

Closing Thoughts

The best way to get an accurate idea of how much it will cost to replace your crawl space insulation is to have a professional inspection done. There are a number of factors that can impact the cost of a crawl space insulation project, including the size of the crawl space, the type of insulation used, and whether there is existing mold and water damage that needs to be addressed.

We highly recommend that you have an inspection of your crawl space done, and have your insulation replacement completed by professionals. Many crawl spaces were built with insufficient attention to moisture issues, which has resulted in huge problems for some homeowners over time. Avoiding those problems all over again means addressing them during the removal and attic insulation installation process.

Aren’t sure if your crawl space insulation needs to be replaced? Have an inspection done by our professional team at Attic Construction! A crawl space inspection is a great place to start and should be done on a regular basis by all homeowners. A quick inspection now can help you avoid costly repairs down the road. To schedule an inspection or get a quote for crawl space insulation replacement, contact us today!

Sources:

  1. “Guide to Closing and Conditioning Ventilated Crawlspaces” https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy13osti/54859.pdf
  2. “How to Inspect and Correct a Vented Crawlspace” https://www.nachi.org/inspect-correct-vented-crawl space.htm
  3. “What is a Crawl Space?” https://www.realtor.com/advice/buy/what-is-a-crawl-space/
  4. “Crawlspace Insulation” https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/crawl space-insulation

Best Insulation for a Crawl Space

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Insulation. No Comments on Best Insulation for a Crawl Space

If your home has a crawl space, you probably don’t pay it much attention. The crawl space, as the name would imply, is uncomfortable to access, and usually hot, sometimes damp, and almost always dirty. Though it might be tempting to deal with your crawl space at a later date, ignoring issues in your crawl space insulation can result in significant problems down the road. 

The air in crawl spaces has to go somewhere, and in a vented crawl space that air usually goes upward through the flooring. The problem lies not in the air that passes through crawl spaces, but the moisture it carries with it. Recognizing and minimizing that moisture is essential in order to avoid the worst outcomes associated with a dirty and unkempt crawl space: lots of mold growth, a damaged crawl space floor, poor air quality in your home, and ineffective insulation.

What is a Crawl space?

Homes may be built on different types of foundations. Typically in the United States, homes are either built on a concrete slab-on-grade, with a basement, or on a crawl space. Crawl spaces create a gap between the ground underneath your home and the floor of your house. Crawl spaces may be as little as a foot off of the ground, or as high as three feet.

While crawl spaces may not be common in every home, they tend to be more common in areas where elevated levels of moisture in the soil and wreak havoc on slab foundations or basements. 

There are two basic types of crawl spaces:

  • Vented – A vented crawl space is one that is not conditioned and where air circulates from outside. This is the most common type of crawl space, but it can also be very problematic. This type of space may need crawl space repair as time goes on and moisture builds.
  • Unvented – Unvented crawl spaces are a conditioned part of your home and don’t circulate air with the outside. These types of crawl spaces are best thought of as a mini-basement. Though there are advantages with an unvented crawl space, they are less common and require more initial labor and materials to construct.

Let’s take a moment to dig into how a vented crawl space is set up since that is the most common type. A ventilated crawl space will typically consist of the ground at the lowest level, which may be covered with gravel, a moisture barrier, or a dirt floor. Above the ground will be a 1-3 foot gap. Above that gap is the subfloor below the first floor of your home, followed by whatever type of flooring you put in. 

Most vented crawl spaces passively circulate air with the outside, meaning a simple opening to the outside is present at various points around the crawl space and no equipment is used to facilitate air circulation. Some crawl spaces are completely vented and open to the outside, but most have only a few venting points around the home. 

Crawl spaces can have some advantages over slab-on-grade foundations or basements. These include:

  • A lower price point. Crawl spaces are cheaper than an unfinished basement and may be cheaper than a slab-on-grade foundation depending on your excavation needs.
  • Crawl spaces give you access to functional systems of your house, including ducting, electrical, plumbing, and insulation. This can result in cheaper major repairs if you have a problem with one of these systems or components of your home.
  • Crawl spaces are used in areas with large amounts of moisture or certain soil types rather than other foundation types that lack venting.
  • Crawl spaces can be installed in colder regions where the freeze-thaw cycle can damage a traditional slab-on-grade foundation. In this instance, a basement would not be ideal and instead, a ventilated crawl space would be the most ideal. 

Moisture and Crawl spaces

One of the most common reasons a crawl space is used rather than a basement or concrete slab foundation is due to the moisture level in the surrounding environment and soil. In very wet areas or coastal areas with sandy soil, a vented crawl space may be necessary to help avoid moisture leaching into the basement or slab. 

While crawl spaces may be used to solve moisture issues, if they aren’t properly set up they can introduce their own moisture problems into your home. 

The problem lies in the temperature difference between the air inside your crawl space and the outside air. During the warmer months of the year, the ground in the crawl space area is colder than the air outside. As outside air enters the crawl space area, it brings with it moisture. That warm, moist air cools when it enters the crawl space until it hits the dew point and forms condensation. 

Modern houses built on crawl spaces place insulation, usually fiberglass batt insulation, in between the floor joists. Due to the fact that the ground in crawl spaces is usually a few degrees cooler than the underside of your floor insulation, condensation will begin to form on the underside of your floor joists and insulation. Over time that condensation will lead to mold growth. Eventually, the moisture in your subfloor may also impact your crawl space floor, particularly if your flooring is something impermeable to moisture like vinyl.

What is the Best Insulation for a Crawl Space?

If you’re looking for the best insulation for crawl space, it’s important to consult with the experts. Here at Attic Construction, we’ve used fiberglass batt insulation successfully in crawl spaces for many years. That being said, it is possible to use other types of insulation material, such as foam, in a crawl space. 

However, crawl spaces have unique considerations that make it a good idea to consult with professionals before any installation takes place. Specifically, in order to eliminate any build-up of moisture in your crawl space, it’s important to effectively manage the moisture levels in that space. Unmanaged moisture in the crawl space will lead to mold growth on your floor joist and insulation material, and that moisture will seep up into the subfloor. This situation can potentially lead to serious damage requiring extensive and costly repairs.

How Should I Insulate My Crawl Space?

If moisture is such a problem, you might be wondering about the best way to insulation crawl space. According to the Building Science Corporation, a building science consulting firm that promotes building best practices, the ideal way to insulate your crawl space is to make it a conditioned part of your home. The best practice is to treat the crawl space as a mini-basement, which involves eliminating venting to the outside, ensuring ground vapor is sealed, insulating and air sealing the walls of the crawl space and treating that space with conditioned air. 

Of course, your home may have a vented crawl space, in which case it may be impractical to switch to an unvented crawl space. In unvented crawl spaces, effective moisture mitigation can be accomplished through the use of a vapor barrier in addition to the fiberglass batt insulation. 

An effectively installed vapor barrier can help eliminate the buildup of condensation on your floor joists or insulation, eliminating the mechanism through which mold growth and damage to your subfloor and flooring occurs. Poor crawl space insulation can be a disaster for you and will ultimately lead to a need for crawl space repair down the road. Find out what type of crawl space your house has and take the necessary steps to complete proper insulation before a problem arises. 

The Importance of Professional Installation

To avoid any costly repairs down the road, it is incredibly important to have your crawl space insulation installed by professionals. Poorly installed crawl space insulation may contain air gaps that allow moisture to penetrate upwards into your home. That moisture will condense, and eventually lead to mold growth in the subfloor, joists, or existing insulation. It may also impact your flooring, particularly if you have flooring such as vinyl which doesn’t allow moisture to pass through. 

It is also important to recognize existing damage and put in place remediation measures before you install new insulation. If you have existing problems with moisture buildup in your crawl space, there may be more work to do before you can begin installing proper insulation. Keep in mind that working in a crawl space is difficult. Crawl spaces are usually cramped, tight spaces that may contain exposed plumbing, electrical, and ducting you’ll have to work around. 

Finally, it’s important to start with a new, clean foundation before starting your new installation process. Check out a crawl space cleaning service to help aid you in the new insulation process.

Closing Thoughts

Crawl spaces are a common type of housing foundation that consists of a gap between the ground and the subfloor of a home. Crawl spaces are typically used in areas where weather and soil conditions make a concrete slab-on-grade foundation or basement impractical. The most common types of crawl spaces are passively vented, which allows air to circulate in from the outside. In the summer months that warm air mixes with the colder air in the crawl space and forms condensation as it cools. 

While the insulation you use in a crawl space is important, it’s even more important that you have your insulation, and vapor barrier if required, installed by a team of professionals. When crawl space insulation isn’t installed correctly it can allow air and moisture to pass through to the subfloor of your home. Over time that moisture can result in the buildup of mold, impacting the air quality throughout your home. That moisture may also result in extensive damage to your subfloor and flooring.

Insulating your crawl space correctly isn’t easy, but it is possible. Leave it to our professional team at Attic Construction. With decades of experience working in attics and crawl spaces across Southern California, our team can help you get your crawl space cleaned up and insulated in no time. To learn more about our San Diego and Orange County crawl space cleaning service, please contact us today.

Sources:

  1. “Crawlspaces – Either in or Out” https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/building-science-insights/bsi-115-crawl spaces-either-or-out
  2. “What is a Crawl Space?” https://www.realtor.com/advice/buy/what-is-a-crawl-space/
  3. “Crawlspace Insulation” https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/crawl space-insulation
  4. “Conditioned Crawlspace Construction, Performance and Codes” https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/bareports/ba-0401-conditioned-crawl space-construction-performance-and-codes/view

How Much Will Rodent Infestation Cleanup Cost?

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Rats, Insulation, Roof Rats. No Comments on How Much Will Rodent Infestation Cleanup Cost?

How Much Will Rodent Infestation Cleanup Cost?

You’ve heard squeaking and scratching sounds coming from your attic, and now you’ve even seen a live rodent scurrying around your house. You called a rodent control company and they’ve confirmed your worst fears – you have a rodent infestation. So how much will the rodent removal and rodent infestation cleanup cost? And, is it really worth the investment to have the job handled by professionals?

 

Nowadays we can buy traps and rat poison online, so you might think that investing money in a professional rodent control and cleanup company is a waste of money. However, you can’t put a price on your family’s health, and if your cleanup and rodent control efforts aren’t done correctly you can put your family’s health and safety at risk.

 

So how much is a rodent control and clean up going to cost you on your bottom line? Well, it’s complicated, but it mostly depends on:

  1. the size of your attic

  2. the extent of the damage done.

 

However, these costs are absolutely necessary and there are ways to justify these rodent infestation cleaning costs.

 

 

Damages Determine Cost

Rodents can cause serious damage to a home. Rodents tend to destroy the area they build their nests in. Additionally, all rodents need to gnaw on things to wear down their teeth. In a home, this means that everything from wooden doorframes to attic insulation to electrical wiring could be damaged during a rodent infestation.

The damage done to your home during a rodent infestation, as well as the size of the active rodent infestation in your home, will determine your rodent infestation cleanup cost.

Frayed electrical wiring can put your home at risk of catching fire. Depending on the extent of the damages, you may need to hire a professional to patch or replace damaged wiring in your home. The same goes for your attic insulation. Rodents like to build their nests in attic insulation, which can completely destroy the insulation in your home. If your attic insulation is damaged or contaminated, your insulation will need to be cleaned and decontaminated or, in some cases, removed and completely replaced.

 

Rodent Infestation Requires More Than Normal Cleaning

Rat problems are much more than a nuisance – rodents carry a wide variety of dangerous, highly contagious diseases including hantavirus, hemorrhagic fever, salmonella, rat bite fever and typhus. In addition to this, rodent droppings, dead rodents, and urine are a breeding ground for germs and bacteria. All of this means that regular attic cleaning will not be enough to restore your home to a safe, healthy environment. Hiring a professional cleaning and decontamination team with specialized equipment and successful track record of handling rodent infestation cleanup is the best way to ensure that your come is completely decontaminated.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image="5018" img_size="600×250" alignment="center" onclick="custom_link" link="https://atticconstruction.com/contact-us/" css=".vc_custom_1556746674406{margin-top: 50px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;}"][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]

SAN DIEGO RESIDENT DISCOUNTS –  858-609-8118

If you are dealing with a rodent infestation, contact the rodent proofing specialists at Attic Construction today. Our technicians are happy to answer your questions about what our attic cleaning costs, and will provide you with FREE initial home inspection and estimate!

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Fiberglass Insulation vs. Foam

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on Fiberglass Insulation vs. Foam

One of the most hotly contested debates in the world of attic insulation is the question “fiberglass or spray foam?” Whereas fiberglass has been a classic go-to staple insulated in American homes for several decades now, spray foam is the en vogue new kid in the neighborhood generating all the latest buzz.

But does spray foam truly have what it takes to dethrone fiberglass as the top choice for attic insulation installation among homeowners?

Answering this question requires a closer look at both fiberglass insulation vs foam. What exactly are they? How are they different from one another? And most importantly, which one best suits both your budget and specific needs for your unique attic? Read on for a tale of the tape.

What is Fiberglass Insulation?

First up in the fiberglass insulation vs foam debate is fiberglass. Fiberglass is a series of extremely delicate fibers comprised of various recycled materials, primarily-you guessed it!-melted down glass. These glass fibers are frequently held together by adhesive backing that serves as a vapor barrier such as reflective aluminum foil or paper.

Cheap but undeniably effective as an insulator, fiberglass is used by roughly 85% of American homeowners today.

How is Fiberglass Packaged?

Fiberglass is available for purchase in the following two forms: wildly popular batts (i.e. the large blankets that bear a striking resemblance to cotton candy) and less common blown-in loose-fill.

Here’s a closer look at both:

  • Batts – Fiberglass Batts has become a favorite with homeowners due to the fact that they’re simultaneously large and light. They’re very easy to pick up at the store and carry upstairs, and once they’re unrolled, they’re able to cover a ton of space. And as an added perk, they’re often designed to be the exact same size as the standard spacing between studs on attic walls.

The only problem with fiberglass batt is that, in attics that have either cumbersome obstructions on the ground and walls or feature awkward spacing, it must be cut precisely to size. Cutting them too short will leave major gaps in coverage for air to flow through while leaving them too long results in irregular compression. And both are bad news for your monthly heating and cooling costs.

Unfortunately, because fiberglass is so light in nature, customizing batts can be not only a total pain but also a costly misstep when done incorrectly. Thus, even if you’re a DIY type of person, you should still call on a professional installer to set up your batts and avoid the unnecessary high fiberglass insulation cost in the long run. This is especially true if your attic is marked by obstacles and irregular space between joists.

  • Loose-Fill – Fiberglass is also available for purchase in bags as loose-fill material, which comes in large chunks. Installing this loose-fill fiberglass in your attic entails a professional installer using a large blowing machine (or you renting the machine if you’re feeling particularly ambitious) to spread the fiberglass wherever necessary.

Blowing in loose-fill fiberglass is a great choice for homeowners who live in older buildings with prior insulation in place and multiple obstructions in the way, as it’s perfect for filling in the tight voids around pipes and wiring that batts struggle to cover.

And since the blowing machine eliminates the need for maneuvering around the room during installation, loose-fill insulation is also a prime choice for any attic with a tight space and low ceiling.

What is Spray Foam Insulation?

Spray foam insulation is a liquid chemical that comes out of a spray can and expands to form an airtight seal over cracks and any other voids that air could flow through.

How is Spray Foam Packaged?

Spray foam comes in two varieties:

  • Open Cell – This refers to foam comprised of cells that aren’t fully enveloped, which makes the foam both flexible and soft.
  • Closed Cell – As the name suggests, this is foam with cells that are completely closed off. These cells press up against one another to block the passage of air and moisture. As a result, closed cell spray foam is more rigid, stable and dense than its open cell counterpart.

Between the two, closed cell spray foam is easily the better insulator, especially in attics where space is tight. Plus, its moisture-resistant qualities make it an ultra-stingy vapor barrier that’s impervious to water damage.

The downside with closed cell foam is that, because it’s significantly more capable than open cell foam, it’s naturally much costlier. And price tag aside, open cell foam definitely has its own merit. Its ability to expand makes it a prime choice for attics with hard to reach nooks and crannies. Additionally, in cases when a single application of foam can fill the entire space between studs, open cell foam is the better option for soundproofing.

R-value

Deciding which type of insulation is the best fit for your attic begins and ends with an understanding of insulation R-value, the measurement used to determine an insulator’s effectiveness in resisting airflow. R-value is a simple “the higher, the better” statistic.

On paper, spray foam is the clear winner in this category, as closed cell foam can reach staggering R-value heights of up to 7.0.  It also doesn’t sag or settle over time, a side effect that fiberglass insulation suffers from when it’s installed incorrectly.

But fiberglass is no slouch at blocking airflow either, as specially designed medium and high-density fiberglass have R-values as high as 4.3. It’s also important to note that, while there’s a limit to how many applications of foam you can spray in one area, the delicate and versatile nature of fiberglass gives you several options for stacking batts upon one another for boosted insulation.

Resistance to Moisture

This category is a neck-and-neck race. Both spray foam and fiberglass are adept at resisting moisture, which means you’re never going to see mold and mildew growing on it either. This makes both invaluable options for homes located in particularly humid regions.

Round Three: Longevity

This is yet another category where both foam and fiberglass are in a class by themselves.

In attics that can maintain ideal conditions, fiberglass insulation will last for a remarkable 100 years. Spray foam, on the other hand, will tap out at about 80 years, which is certainly nothing to scoff at, but still comes short of the century mark gold standard set by fiberglass.

Additionally, though foam neither sags nor settles the way improperly installed fiberglass can, it does tend to shrink over time, a drawback you don’t have to worry about with fiberglass insulation in the attic.

The Installation Process

While you’re deciding on the home insulation material, it helps to look at other aspects, like insulation installation.

Fiberglass runs circles around spray foam in this category.

In wide-open attics with no obstructions on the walls or ground and consistent spacing between joists, the installation of batts couldn’t be simpler for your installer (or you, if you’re the DIY type). Even for attics with prior insulation or multiple obstructions that call for loose-fill fiberglass, using a blowing machine is a relatively straightforward and inexpensive process.

Conversely, the installation of spray foam is a double-edged sword. As discussed above, applying spray foam incorrectly can have grave health consequences, a scary thought given the fact that spraying foam is a complicated process even for professionals.

Intangibles

Both foam and fiberglass share two distinct intangibles that not all other insulators can match:

  • Fire-Resistance – They’re noncombustible, which means that you can set either up between the wooden joists in your attic without ever having to worry about them catching fire.
  • Sound Barricade – They stand at the top of their class in blocking both inside and outside noise, giving the acoustics in your home a natural boost.

Cost-Effectiveness

When it comes to choosing insulation materials for your attic, perhaps the only consideration more important than R-value is standalone value, and understanding insulation installation costs.  In both the short-term and the long run, which material truly gives you the most bang for your buck?

When you factor in cost, you can argue that fiberglass gives you a better immediate payoff. While spray foam’s top-notch thermal performance costs you an arm and a leg, fiberglass provides you with a similarly impressive output for only a fraction of the cost.

Because both foam and fiberglass are superstars at trapping air, both will save you considerable money over time on your energy bill. But fiberglass may also have a leg up on foam in long-term value because of its energy efficiency as it conserves 12 times as much energy as it generates, a unique trait that can slash your utility bill by a whopping 40% annually!

The Final Scorecard

There’s no denying that spray foam is the top dog insulator on the basis of sheer R-value. But choosing the best insulation for your specific attic isn’t as simple as just picking the material with the highest R-value on the packaging. You also have to consider crucial factors like:

  • The amount of space in your attic
  • The climate in your region
  • Potential safety hazards
  • And most importantly, your overall budget.

All things considered, fiberglass will be the best choice for most attics, especially attics in brand new buildings or renovation projects that don’t have HVAC units on the floor or pipes nestled on the walls. The benefits of fiberglass insulation make it clear why time and time again, this is a popular choice for insulating attics. Fiberglass comes close to matching spray foam in all major performance categories, its quick and simple installation is the opposite of the complete nightmare of spray foams’, and—the knockout punch—it’s as cheap as spray foam is expensive.

Though spray foam has a lot to offer, it’s with good reason that the walls and roofing of a vast majority of attics in American homes will continue to look like cotton candy.

Call on Attic Construction for All Your Fiberglass Installation Needs

Think you’ve decided on the best insulation for your attic and are ready for installation? Since attic and home insulation is a crucial part of any house, it’s best to skip the DIY on this one and call a professional. Much like fiberglass itself, our expert staff at Attic Construction provides you with the best for less: outstanding service at rates that can’t be beat.

Whether you’re looking for guidance on how to install fiberglass batts yourself or want to put the job in the hands of pros that you can guarantee will do it right, we’re here and ready to help with any and all of your attic insulation needs.

Contact us for a free estimate today!

Resources

1) “Fiberglass Insulation vs. Spray Foam Insulation” by Editorial Staff at Diffen
https://www.diffen.com/difference/Fiberglass_Insulation_vs_Spray_Foam_Insulation

2) “4 Pitfalls of Spray Foam Insulation” by Allison Bailes
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/25546/4-Pitfalls-of-Spray-Foam-Insulation

3) “Everything You Need to Know About Insulation’s R-Value” by editorial staff at Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford
https://www.todayshomeowner.com/insulation-r-value/

4) “How Long Will Fiberglass Insulation Last?” By SF Gate
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/long-fiberglass-insulation-last-93486.html#targetText=The%20expected%20service%20life%20of,usually%20stated%20as%20100%20years.

5 Benefits of Fiberglass Insulation

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on 5 Benefits of Fiberglass Insulation

While it’s not a much talked about subject, adding insulation to your attic can have significant impacts on your home, and one of the most popular types is fiberglass. A whopping 85% of American homeowners are lining their attics with fiberglass insulation as their insulation material of choice, making the glass fiber cotton candy look– a– like the top-selling insulator by a landslide.

In which case, what’s made fiberglass such a popular household staple for the past several decades? Here’s a list of the top five benefits that homeowners who have used fiberglass for their attic insulation installation will enjoy.

1) It’s Both Moisture-Resistant and Fire-Resistant

Among the many risks that come with owning a home include the possibility of property damage caused by a natural disaster. Thankfully, in the case of both a flood or fire, you can count on fiberglass to resist the elements.

Fiberglass isn’t entirely waterproof, as it can get damp or wet. But it neither holds nor retains water, which makes it easy to dry off and put right back up in the attic. And the fact that fiberglass is adept at resisting moisture means that you won’t have to worry about the growth of mildew or mold on it.

Fiberglass is also noncombustible, a particularly coveted attribute given the fact that, in most cases, the process of installing insulation in an attic requires material to be lined within wooden joists.

2) It’s Super Easy to Install

Since fiberglass is one of the most used types of attic insulation, its safe to say that it’s also super easy to install. Whereas some popular insulators are a nightmare to set up properly in your attic, installing fiberglass batts insulation is a relatively painless process.

Batts are conveniently designed to be the same width as the standard distance between studs on a wall, which makes fiberglass insulation installation as easy as unrolling and stapling them.

The thermal performance of fiberglass batts will drop dramatically if they’re cut to the wrong length or somehow installed improperly, so it’s recommended that you hire a professional to install a fiberglass batt insulation instead of a DIY method. Because it tends to be such a straightforward process, however, professionals are likely to charge you less for batt installation than they would for installing an alternative insulation material like foam. You can also ensure that it is installed properly when you go with an insulation company.

3) It Comes in Loose-Fill Form Too

Though batts are oftentimes easy to install, the task becomes a bit more complicated for attics with:

  • Awkward spacing between joists
  • Minimal headroom and crawl space for an installer to maneuver around
  • Heating and cooling units or other cumbersome obstructions situated on the ground
  • Pipes resting on the walls

Thankfully, you can avoid the migraine of having to dice fiberglass batt insulation to a specific size by using loose fill insulation instead. Loose fiberglass insulation installation involves chunks of fiberglass that are packaged in bags and applied to gaps in coverage courtesy of a large blowing machine.

4) It’s Extremely Effective

Fiberglass for attics stands at or near the top of its class in virtually every meaningful category. When fiberglass is installed properly, you can rest easy knowing that you’re getting outstanding:

  • Performance – Fiberglass varies greatly in density and thickness, which means that its R-value (i.e. the term used to indicate an insulator’s effectiveness in resisting airflow) has a wide range as well. But at its best, fiberglass has an R-value of 4.3, good enough to match and even exceed most of its competition.
  • Durability – In attics where ideal conditions are maintained, fiberglass can last up to 100 years without needing maintenance. This is a good 20 years longer than the staying power of the next most durable material.
  • Soundproofing – In addition to blocking airflow, fiberglass also has a knack for blocking sound. Even if you have loud neighbors or a heating and cooling unit that won’t shut up, fiberglass insulation ensures that the acoustics in your home stay sharp.
  • Eco-Friendliness – Fiberglass is composed of a combination of glass, sand, and other recycled materials, and naturally conserves non-renewable fuel sources. This makes it among the most environmentally friendly insulation product on the market.
  • Long-Term Value – Speaking of energy efficiency and conservation, fiberglass has the capacity to conserve up to 12 times as much energy as it puts forth. Get ready to shave about 2/5 off of your utility bills!

5) It’s Cheap

Not only is it effective, durable, eco-friendly, and energy efficient, but it’s also cheaper than most materials. Though fiberglass insulation products are excellent insulators, you wouldn’t guess it from the cost. In some cases, you can find it for well under $1 per square foot. Even at its costliest, fiberglass insulation cost per square foot will unlikely exceed $1.30.

Fiberglass is like a superstar athlete that you’ve managed to retain on a rookie contract: it’s incredible how little you have to pay for the top-tier efficacy. The price point and savings on energy costs and bills make it a clear winning choice for home insulation when comparing fiberglass insulation vs spray foam insulation.

Call Attic Construction to Install Fiberglass in Your Attic

Fiberglass is among the most dynamic insulators and is easily the most cost-effective. At Attic Construction, we pride ourselves on achieving that same standard: unrivaled service at a rate that won’t make you break the bank.

Whether you want us to handle your next fiberglass installation or you’re simply looking for expert guidance before you do it yourself, we’re here to help you with all of your attic insulation needs. We provide comprehensive attic services such as insulation removal, wall insulation, radiant barrier insulation, rodent proofing, and more. Still confused about the difference between each insulation type?

Give us a call for a free quote today! Our San Diego, Orange County or Phoenix insulation removal & installation services are just a call away.

Resources

1) “Fiberglass Insulation vs. Spray Foam Insulation” by Editorial Staff at Diffen
https://www.diffen.com/difference/Fiberglass_Insulation_vs_Spray_Foam_Insulation

2) “Everything You Need to Know About Insulation’s R-Value” by editorial staff at Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford
https://www.todayshomeowner.com/insulation-r-value/

3) “How Much Does it Cost to Insulate a House?” by editorial staff at Home Advisor
https://www.homeadvisor.com/cost/insulation/

Fiberglass Insulation Cost

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on Fiberglass Insulation Cost

Fiberglass Insulation Cost

While insulation costs can vary depending on which material you choose for your home insulation, fiberglass is by far the most popular choice for attic insulation material compared to cellulose, mineral wool, or spray foam insulation. Aside from this insulation type being significantly more effective in energy savings when comparing it to foam insulation, the most convincing argument for choosing fiberglass is a simple one: it’s a fantastic product that you can buy for an irresistibly inexpensive price.

But Just How Inexpensive Exactly?

Like all insulation materials, fiberglass doesn’t come with a “one size fits all” price tag. and may also depend on your existing insulation situation. That is why it’s important to get multiple insulation installation cost estimates so you can see which insulation contractor will give you the most competitive price for the attic insulation cost. 

Several factors go into the final cost of attic insulation installation with fiberglass, including potentially adding crawl space or wall insulation. Proper insulation also depends on where you live! For example, air leaks in cold areas can cost you tons in energy costs, while a very hot climate may require something like a radiant barrier. Continue reading for everything you need to know about how much does attic insulation cost and what you can expect to spend on fiberglass insulation.

What is Insulation?

Insulation is material designed to protect heat loss or gain by providing a barrier, so that heat or sound does not transmit from one area to another. It is used to fill any spaces, such as little gaps, hard-to-reach places, and above ceilings. By filling the spaces in your home, it helps reduce heat flow by absorbing and/or reflecting heat.

Why is it Important?

Having your home properly insulated helps keep your home’s temperature comfortable and keeps your energy bills low. Keeping warm air inside during the winter and retaining cold air in the summer allows for insulation improvements. Specifically, attic insulation is important because warm and cool air often escapes through the attic and is often left relatively unchecked. To combat this, fiberglass insulation is an excellent way to stop the air from sneakily escaping, leading to increased comfort levels, utility savings, energy efficiency.

 

The Two Kinds of Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass insulation comes in two varieties:

  • Batts – These are the large blankets featuring long, puffy strands of fiberglass held together by an adhesive vapor barrier like reflective foil or paper. Because insulation batts are specially designed to be the same length as the standard distance between joists in your average attic space, installation tends to be a breeze. You simply unroll them and tack them up where needed.

For attics that have HVAC units/piping/other awkward obstacles in the way, however, batt installation is a more complicated endeavor that requires the installer to cut them to an exact size and shape to fit the attic space properly.

  • Loose–Fill Insulation – This type of fiberglass comes in chunks that can be purchased by the bagful. During the insulation installation, the contractor will use a large blowing machine to spread this loose-fill material throughout your attic space as needed. For homeowners living in older homes with attics that have multiple obstructions on the floors and walls, loose-fill tends to be the fiberglass attic insulation choice.

Because fiberglass batts are considerably more popular among American homeowners than their loose-fill insulation brethren, this article will focus on how the cost of batt insulation is determined.

Factor #1: The R-value of Fiberglass

The thermal quality of an insulator is referred to as its “R-value.” Simply put, the higher the R-value of a given insulator, the more effective it will be at resisting temperature transfer and, naturally, the higher the insulation price.

An insulation material’s R-value is primarily based on its thickness and density. Both of these qualities vary immensely with fiberglass, which means the price does too.

Factor #2: The R-value You Need in Your Attic

R-value is used to describe the thermal capability of not only insulation material but also a room as a whole.

Based on regional climate, each American state suggests—or in some cases, mandates—the minimum R-value that an attic must maintain. You can check out this helpful chart created by the US Department of Energy for an in-depth look at recommended attic R-values by region throughout the country, but the basic idea is as follows:

  • Homeowners living in perpetually balmy regions like Southern California should shoot for an R-value of R30
  • Homeowners residing in frigid climates with brutal winters should maintain at least an R49, and perhaps even aim for as high as R60
  • Everyone else’s attic should have an R-value somewhere between R38 and R49

An attic’s R-value is calculated simply by multiplying the R-value of the insulation material you choose by the total amount in square feet of material installed. This means that, in the same way, a hefty winter jacket will cost more than a basic cotton t-shirt, attics that require higher R-values will result in you spending more money on insulation material.

Factor #3: Installation

If you’re intent on making the proper insulation of your attic a DIY insulation project, the factors that affect the cost of your fiberglass batts end there. But if you’d rather put the installation in the hands of a professional insulation contractor (which we highly recommend), that will add a few extra hundred dollars or so to the final invoice for insulation costs.

Though batts are the easiest insulator to install on your own, the DIY route leaves you prone to common amateur mistakes like:

  • Inadvertently tearing a corner of the batt
  • Cutting the batt to too short a size
  • Leaving a batt to be too long

Each of the above mistakes allows air leaks through any voids, which results in you throwing money out the window on your utility bill down the road. Shelling out the extra dough to a pro today will allow you to reap the benefits of fiberglass insulation and save hundreds, perhaps even thousands of dollars in heating and cooling costs in the long run. Energy efficiency is definitely not a benefit you want to miss out on by simply not installing your home insulation correctly, which is why using a professional will be your best bet.

Count on Attic Construction for Your Fiberglass Batt Installation

At Attic Construction, we pride ourselves on bringing you outstanding, expert service and the invaluable peace of mind that comes with knowing that your fiberglass insulation installation will get done correctly at the most competitive rates out there.

We are proud to offer the following insulation services at our locations:

Orange County Insulation Installation, Removal and Replacement

San Diego Insulation Installation, Removal and Replacement

Phoenix Insulation Installation, Removal and Replacement

Contact us for a free quote today or if you’re looking for a more eco friendly insulation!

Resources

1) “Recommended Home Insulation R-Values” by the US Department of Energy
https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table

2) “How Much Does it Cost to Insulate a House?” by editorial staff at Home Advisor
https://www.homeadvisor.com/cost/insulation/

3) “Everything You Need to Know About Insulation’s R-Value” by editorial staff at Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford
https://www.todayshomeowner.com/insulation-r-value/

What is Fiberglass Attic Insulation?

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on What is Fiberglass Attic Insulation?

If you have childhood memories of being in your attic and thinking the walls and roofing looked like they were covered in cotton candy, then you’re a part of the vast majority of Americans who grew up with fiberglass insulation. An attic mainstay for several decades now, fiberglass remains the go-to choice for an attic insulation installation for a whopping 85% of American homeowners.

What exactly is fiberglass insulation? What forms is it available in? And why has it become such a standout in the world of attic insulation amongst all the other insulation types? Read on for everything you need to know about the cotton candy dead ringer that has found a home in countless attics.

What is Fiberglass Made of?

Fiberglass is a series of immensely delicate fibers composed primarily of—get ready to thank Captain Obvious—glass (typically the translucent kind you see in windows and drinking glasses).

Here’s how fiberglass gets made:

  • Step One – The glass gets heated until molten.
  • Step Two – This melted glass is combined with other eco-friendly materials like sand and limestone and then woven into strands.
  • Step Three – The fiberglass strands are then fortified with different resins, which also allows them to be customized into various shapes.

How is Fiberglass Installed in Your Attic?

Speaking of fiberglass shapes, there are two ways for a professional installer (or an ambitious DIY-er) to hook your attic up with fiberglass insulation:

  • Batts – By far the most common form of fiberglass insulation, these are the large rolled-up sheets held together by either reflective aluminum foil or paper acting as an adhesive vapor barrier. Batts make for the easiest installation process, as one sheet not only covers a whole bunch of real estate but also is designed to be the same size as standard joists.

Yes, their size does make them a hassle for attics with multiple obstructions like pipes or HVAC units. But for new buildings or gut renovations that leave plenty of open space, batts are the optimal choice.

  • Loose-Fill – What if you want to reap all the benefits of fiberglass insulation but your attic is littered with obstructions or has awkward spacing between joists? That’s where loose-fill, blown-in fiberglass comes to the rescue.

Loose-fill fiberglass comes in chunks that can be purchased in bags and is applied by way of your installer using a large blowing machine to fill in the gaps of your attic space as needed. These machines make it easier for insulation contractors to work in attics that have a low ceiling or don’t offer much space for maneuvering around.

Loose-fill is also a sensible option for older homes with attics that have prior insulation in place.

Why is Fiberglass so Popular?

Like Kleenex, Band-Aids, and Google, fiberglass is such a popular choice with consumers that the word “fiberglass” itself has become virtually synonymous with “attic insulation.”
It’s easy to see why. Fiberglass presents homeowners with numerous benefits, such as:

  • Cheap and Easy – Fiberglass is a highly accessible commodity that can be found at just about any home improvement store. Whether you purchase it in batt or loose-fill form, fiberglass is extremely easy to carry and unpack. Best of all, it’s dirt cheap, which enables you to boost the insulation level in your attic without having to break the bank.

But don’t let the low price tag fool you: fiberglass is far from being a “you get what you pay for” product. Fiberglass insulation cost may be cheap, but you get the bang for your buck. Naturally adept at trapping pockets of air to keep your home warm in the Winter and cool in the Summer, fiberglass can hang with the best when it comes to thermal performance (more on this later).

  • Saves You Money Over Time – According to industry professionals, fiberglass conserves 12 times as much energy as it uses to prevent airflow. This unique capacity for storing energy can help you axe your utility bill by up to 40% annually! These energy savings make this type of insulation a no brainer. And as an additional perk, fiberglass also conserves nonrenewable fuel sources, making it among the eco-friendliest insulation materials on the market.
  • Insane Longevity – Fiberglass is an insulator you can set and forget. When installed in an attic that maintains ideal conditions, fiberglass will last for a full 100 years before it needs to be replaced.
  • No Shrinkage – Unlike some attic insulation material, fiberglass doesn’t shrink over time. When properly installed and kept dry, what you see on day one is what you’ll continue to get.
  • Fire-Resistant – Fiberglass is non-flammable, which gives you invaluable peace of mind knowing that you can use it to line your wooden joists without having to worry about it setting the wood on fire.
  • Moisture-Resistant – Fiberglass is naturally resistant to the spread of moisture, which by extension makes attics with fiberglass insulation much less vulnerable to the spread of mold and mildew. Thus, fiberglass is a particularly smart choice if you live in a region with a notably humid climate.
  • Acoustic Boosting – Fiberglass is a top performer when it comes to absorbing sound waves. With fiberglass insulation in place, outside noise will remain outside of your home. As an added bonus, fiberglass also reduces the transmission of inside noise. No matter how obnoxiously loud the rumblings from your HVAC unit may be, homes with fiberglass installed in the attic will enjoy peak acoustics.
  • Discourages Infestations – Fiberglass may look like cotton candy, but it’s completely unpalatable. This means that your attic isn’t likely to become the popular neighborhood spot for insects, rodents and other unwelcome instigators of infestation.

Is There a Downside to Fiberglass?

Even the best attic insulation products will have their share of drawbacks, and fiberglass is no exception. Some of the fiberglass disadvantages include:

  • It’s useless if it gets wet or even damp. If your fiberglass insulation does get wet, you should have it inspected and fully dried by a professional immediately. Thankfully, the fact that fiberglass neither holds nor retains water makes it fairly easy to dry out.
  • It’s a headache to customize fiberglass batts. But again, cutting batts down to a specific size is typically only relevant in older homes with an attic space that has multiple obstructions, awkward spacing or low clearance.
  • As is the case with the majority of insulation materials, it presents some safety hazards. The consequences of touching or inhaling fiberglass during the installation process range from an itchy rash on your skin to serious damage to your respiratory system.
  • Though fiberglass doesn’t shrink, its ultra-light nature makes it prone to irregular compression, settling and sagging, all of which will hurt its R-value (and jack up your monthly energy bill) over time.

Wait, what the heck is R-value?

In any discussion about insulation, the term you’re bound to keep hearing is “R-value.” An insulation material’s R-value is basically its effectiveness in resisting airflow. The higher the R-value, the better the material is at trapping air.

The R-value that you should try (or in some cases, might be required by state law) to maintain in your attic all depends on the climate in the region where you live. The US Department of Energy created this helpful guide for R-value recommendations by region. Generally speaking, ideal R-values are as follows:

  • If the climate in your region is so hot that playing a round of golf during the day could be life-threatening, then the R-value of your attic should fall somewhere near R25 and R30
  • If you live in a region that has virtually perfect weather year-round (looking at you, San Diego), keeping your attic’s R-value at about R30 should do the trick
  • If you live in a region where scraping ice off of your car’s windshield during winter mornings is as routine as a cup of coffee, your attic’s R-value should be at least R49, and perhaps as high as R60
  • In all other regions, the R-value in your attic should land somewhere between R38 and R49

What is Fiberglass’s R-value? And How Does it Compare to Other Insulation Material?

Not all fiberglass is created equal, as it can vary greatly in both density and thickness, the two key factors in determining R-value. The R-value of the cheapest quality fiberglass can check-in at as low as 2.0. For a slightly higher cost, however, specially designed medium and high-density fiberglass will have an R-value as high as 4.3.

Let’s take a look at how fiberglass stacks up against the competition in the R-value category:

  • Fiberglass: 2.2 – 4.3
  • Cellulose: 3.2 – 3.5
  • Mineral Wool: 3.7 – 4.2
  • Cotton: 3.4 – 3.7
  • Spray Foam: – 3.5 – 7.0

The Battle of Fiberglass vs Spray Foam

Chances are you just did a double-take when you noticed spray foam’s potential to reach an impressive 7.0 R-value. But before you go searching for spray foam installers on Yelp, it’s important to note that foam insulation, for all of its advantages, is expensive.

Additionally, it’s not only extremely complicated to install, but also potentially hazardous to your health if installed incorrectly. In fact, the risk and potential fallout of installing spray foam improperly are such that most home improvement and construction companies choose not to offer it.

Fiberglass doesn’t reach the same R-value heights as spray foam, but the money you save on both the material itself and the fast, simple installation process makes fiberglass the most cost-effective insulation option out there.

The Oak Ridge Myth

In the 1990s, a study was conducted at the Oak Ridge National Laboratory in Tennessee to test the thermal qualities of various insulation materials, including fiberglass. The results of the “Oak Ridge Study” revealed that the R-value of loose-fill fiberglass decreases significantly in the face of cold temperatures, especially in situations when temperatures dropped rapidly.

In the wake of the study, many people accepted the results as fact, and others still misinterpreted these results to mean that all fiberglass performs poorly in cold temperatures, regardless of design. And while these results won’t mean much to homeowners in San Diego, they have understandably caused homeowners who reside in frigid climates to balk at the idea of purchasing fiberglass.

Recent follow-up studies, however, have revealed that the results of the Oak Ridge Study are misleading. The diminishing returns of the loose-fill fiberglass used at Oak Ridge didn’t stem from the fiberglass itself, but rather the now outdated way in which the fiberglass was installed at the time. The process of blowing in loose-fill fiberglass has since been perfected, which means you can count on fiberglass to maintain its R-value no matter how cold it gets outside.

Count on Attic Construction to Install Fiberglass in Your Home

Ready to get started and insulate your attic with fiberglass? Attic Construction is ready to help!

Our expert team prides itself on offering outstanding customer service in answering any specific questions you may have about the pros and cons of fiberglass insulation, and then either installing it in your attic for you or walking you through the DIY route.

Conclusion

With its unrivaled low price, hassle-free installation requirements, dynamic thermal performance and unique ability to continue helping you slash your energy bill over time, fiberglass gives you the most bang for your buck of any insulation material.

At Attic Construction, we consider ourselves the fiberglass of home improvement services, offering you the best service at the lowest price. Give us a call for an estimate and to set up your next attic insulation installation today.

Resources

1) “Recommended Home Insulation R-Values” by the US Department of Energy
https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table

2) “Everything You Need to Know About Insulation’s R-Value” by editorial staff at Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford
https://www.todayshomeowner.com/insulation-r-value/

3) “Does Fiberglass Insulation Really Lose R-Value” by Allison Bailes
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/does-fiberglass-attic-insulation-really-lose-r-value

Which Attic Insulation Is Best?

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on Which Attic Insulation Is Best?

No matter how big your home is or what material it’s made of, each one needs to have proper attic insulation to keep the temperature regulated and the energy bill down. And if you live in a region with particularly cold and snowy winters, that last sentence applies to you in bold font and all caps. Overall, the biggest benefit of having your attic insulated is better energy efficiency.

But which attic insulation is best? There isn’t a “one size fits all” answer to the best insulation, as several factors come into play. However, you can still determine which one may be the best attic insulation for you.  Read on for everything you need to know about the different attic insulation options, and how you can choose which insulation type is right for you.


An Overview of R-Value

Any conversation about proper attic insulation must begin with a firm understanding of R-Value, the unit by which insulation’s strength is determined. Insulation R-Value is a material’s capacity to resist the transfer of heat or heat loss . A material’s R-Value is generally affected by the following four factors:

  • Type of material (more on this shortly)
  • Thickness
  • Density
  • Where and how it’s installed

The higher an attic’s total R-Value, the better it will be at trapping heat flow and keeping your home from turning into an iceberg in the winter or sauna in the summer.

Generally speaking, the US Department of Energy recommends maintaining the following overall R-Value levels in your attic:

  • R30 in hot climates (like California)
  • R38 in temperate climates (this is typically the desired level for residences in California)
  • R49 in cold climates (note: if you live in a region where the temperature regularly drops to “every shop in town is closed today because it’s so cold outside” levels during the winter, maintaining a specific R-Value in your attic may be required by state law)


Types of Attic Insulation Material

Though R-Value is a “the higher, the better” measurement, the insulation material with the highest R-Value isn’t necessarily the best attic insulation choice for your house. Different insulation materials have unique strengths and weaknesses, and some attics will be more suited for certain material than others.

Here’s an overview of the most frequently used insulation material, the pros that made them so popular with consumers, and the cons you should consider before you buy:


1. Fiberglass

So what is fiberglass insulation? is like the McDonald’s Big Mac of insulation material: it’s certainly not the highest quality option, but it’s easily the most popular insulation type . Its R-Value ranges from as low as 2.2 to as high as 4.3 in the case of specially manufactured high-density fiberglass. As such, it usually performs the worst in terms of insulation for attics.

The fact that it has been a staple of new insulation construction and Extreme Home Makeover-like gut renovations are easy to track. With many benefits of Fiberglass insulation, Some of the advantages include:

  • It’s cheap and highly accessible
  • It’s adept at resisting moisture, which is why it’s particularly sought after in regions with high humidity
  • It doesn’t shrink over time
  • It’s fire-resistant
  • Insects will avoid nibbling on it


2. Cellulose

Cellulose insulation generally comes from either wood or recycled paper, and often manufacturers will claim it as a green product. Although cellulose has slightly more recycled content than other attic insulation types, it does not pass a holistic “green” assessment of its impact on the environment.

 


There are some concerns about cellulose insulation that you should keep in mind. Cellulose insulation is naturally flammable and is treated with high amounts of anti-flammable chemicals. The Consumer Products Safety Commission requires all cellulose manufacturers to warn their customers that cellulose insulation presents a fire hazard.

Although Cellulose remains an inexpensive commodity and is typically up to 25% cheaper than fiberglass insulation, it’s not without its drawbacks, such as:

  • They’re a Glutton for Moisture – Any insulation is rendered useless as soon as it becomes wet. Because cellulose is designed to collect and hold water, it waves the white flag in the presence of moisture quicker than any other insulation material. This can cause cellulose insulation to not only slip in effectiveness, but also develop mold and mildew, and even rotting. And if cellulose does become wet, the boric acid used to treat it goes from being harmless to corrosive.
  • Settling – Cellulose also tends to settle and sag over time, which takes away its superpowers. Thankfully, this is less of a problem with attics and pertains more to walls throughout the house.
  • Dust – If you’re in the attic while cellulose insulation is being installed, strap your respiratory mask and goggles on extra tightly. Cellulose creates a whole lot of dust when first installed.


3. Mineral Wool

Featuring melted-down stone and recycled slag from steel mills, mineral wool batts are more widely utilized in Canada and Europe but are currently enjoying a resurgence in the US.

Compared to fiberglass, mineral wool is costlier, but you get what you pay for due to the following advantages:

  • Fire Barrier – Mineral wool doesn’t even begin to burn until it reaches 1,8000 degrees Fahrenheit. In the worst-case scenario of a house fire, this will buy the fire department crucial, potentially home-saving extra minutes to arrive at the scene and take care of business.
  • Water Warrior – In addition to being fire-resistant, mineral wool is also water-resistant, able to continue insulating even in the face of the worst moisture leak.
  • Wall of (No) Sound – Mineral wool is extremely effective at blocking outside noise from entering your home.

There’s only one drawback with mineral wool insulation, but it’s a significant one: inhaling it during insulation can be potentially cancerous. Proceed with extreme caution if you’re present for the insulation installation.

4. Cotton Or Denim Insulation

Interestingly, cotton insulation comes from recycled blue jeans. And aside from the novelty of having former blue jeans hung up in your attic, cotton insulation is a viable choice for the following reasons:

  • High Performance – With a typical R-Value of about 3.7 and up, cotton traps heat with the best of them.
  • Safety – Whereas both fiberglass and mineral wool present safety hazards both in the physical handling of them and the fibers they release into the air, cotton couldn’t be safer to handle or install. No need to worry about it irritating your skin or the consequences of accidentally breathing it in during attic insulation installation.

Similar to mineral wool, denim insulation is an extremely expensive type of insulation.


5. Foam

If you’ve ever wondered what the difference is between fiberglass insulation vs foam, when it comes to performance, foam is the MVP of insulation material. There are two types of foam insulation:

  • Open cell, which has an R-Value of about 3.5
  • Closed cell foam, which hits a whopping R7!

Keep in mind that foam insulation is not recommended for residential applications and is mostly used for commercial or industrial applications. The benefits of foam include:

  • Top-Notch Air Leakage Prevention – The only difference between foam and the 1986 Chicago Bears’ defense is that foam can’t do the Super Bowl Shuffle dance. Foam is the stingiest of defenders against air coming in or out, able to expand quickly and form an air sealing over cavities that other insulation materials couldn’t handle. This air sealing insulation type also discourages airborne contaminants from spreading.
  • Pushing the Envelope – A house’s building envelope is the physical separation of conditioned space (where people move and breath) from unconditioned space (where they don’t). Foam is the only home insulation material that allows you to expand your building envelope to your attic’s roofline. This is a particularly clutch option if your HVAC system (heating, ventilation and air conditioning, for the layman) is located on the floor.
  • Equally Tough on Water – Foam insulation is impermeable to water, which means it neither lets water in nor absorbs it. If that couldn’t make mold and mildew feel any less welcome, foam also contains a polymer that deters their growth, which means they don’t have a prayer of setting up shop around foam.
  • Durability – Foam never settles or loses its efficiency, even in the face of severe temperature drops. You can leave it up for literally decades without having to worry about maintenance.
  • Dual-Purpose – When you apply foam to your rooflines, the effect is two-fold. It not only fortifies your home’s attic structure but also serves as an unrivaled sound blocker.

Once again, the many perks that foam has to offer for your commercial or residential building will hit you in the wallet. Aside from the obvious downside of attic insulation cost, there are other drawbacks with foam to consider, such as:

  • Shrinkage – Though the R-Value of foam never diminishes, it does shrink over time in some cases.
  • Professional Installation or Bust – When the foam isn’t installed properly with an expert insulation installer, it’s likely to fold over itself and create voids that the naked eye can’t see. Even worse, you run the risk of exposing yourself to the foam before it fully cures and becomes non-toxic, a mistake that can have potentially life-threatening consequences.


Popular Attic Insulation Installation Methods

Typically, the insulation material is installed in an attic space in one of four ways:


1. Batt Insulation 

Batts come packaged in rolled-up sheets featuring interweaving fibers. These fibers are usually held in place by adhesive binders in the form of either paper or reflective foil backing, both of which can serve as a vapor barrier. 

The majority of batt insulation is either fiberglass or mineral wool and occasionally denim.

 


Because batts cover such extensive real estate, they are ideal for attics that fit the following description:

  • An expansive area with little to no obstructions on the attic floor and plenty of headroom for the insulation installer to maneuver around
  • No prior insulation is in place
  • The area features joists (the horizontal structural wooden rods running between two beams in open space) that are spaced out evenly

If you’re in need of replacing your batt insulation, you’ll need to know how to remove batt insulation or you can contact an attic services professional to do the job for you.

2. Blown-in Insulation 

Also known as loose-fill insulation, blown-in insulation comes in tiny chunks packaged in large bags, and entails using a blowing machine to fill in necessary spaces. Fiberglass, cotton, and mineral wool can all work as loose-fill insulation material, but the far and away top choice for blown-in insulation is fiberglass.

Contrary to batts insulation, blown-in fiberglass insulation is perfect for filling in tight voids around wiring, pipes, or any area with awkward framing.


3. Spray Foam Insulation 

The spray can is the exclusive home of spray foam insulation. Often paired with blanket insulation to seal gaps, it is one of the most effective ways to insulate the attic space. The spray foam attic insulation is sprayed into the gap of your attic expanding and hardening into a solid foam.

 

4. Blanket Insulation

Blanket insulation is an inexpensive and easy way to install insulation into your attic floor and wall. Sliced thick pieces of insulation are fitted tightly between the gaps in wooden frames or around pipes, wires, and other obstacles to shield the attic from heat and cold. It’s important to avoid this type of attic floor and wall insulation in open spaces as it can affect the indoor air quality of your home.

 

Cost of Insulation for Attic

Whether you end up choosing fiberglass batt insulation, blow in insulation, or spray foam,  it’s important to know the cost of different attic insulation types and overall insulation installation costs. According to Forbes Advisor, the average attic insulation cost can range from $1,500 to $3,500. However, this depends on the size of your attic space. Breaking it down by cost per square foot, the average cost is between $1 and $7 per square foot depending on the material of the attic insulation.

Attic insulation removal cost depends on the current condition of your home. Generally, you do not need to fully replace your attic insulation. Except in cases like serious water damage or animal infestation, a professional would need to rip out all the existing insulation and add in new insulation material. Removing your old insulation can typically cost around $1 to $2 per square foot.

 

How Much Attic Insulation Do I Need?

Generally, if it is less than about 10 to 13 inches, the equivalent of an R-30, it is recommended to add more insulation. However, depending on where you live and the age of your home, the recommended level of attic insulation is different.

 

Let Attic Construction Help You With All Your Insulation Needs

So you’ve determined the best insulation for your attic, what’s next? While DIY’ers can perform attic insulation, it certainly doesn’t mean it should be, especially when installing spray foam attic insulation.

At Attic Construction, we’re dedicated to working with you and your budget to assess which type of insulation best suits your unique attic, and how much of it you’ll need (because there is such a thing as too little or too much insulation in the attic) . Whether you have a finished attic or an unfinished attic, when you rely on our expert team of installers, you can rest easy knowing that the insulation installation will be done right and done safely.

Need help with a home insulation project? We are proud to offer the following insulation services at our locations:

Orange County Insulation Installation, Removal, and Replacement

San Diego Insulation Installation, Removal, and Replacement

Phoenix Insulation Installation, Insulation Removal, and Replacement


Resources: 

1) “Batts, Blown or Sprayed? What’s the Best Attic Insulation?” by Allison Bailes
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/46480/Batts-Blown-or-Sprayed-What-s-the-Best-Attic-Insulation

2) “Attic Insulation Types” by Rueben Saltzman
https://www.constructionprotips.com/tools-materials/attic-insulation-types/

3) “Read This Before You Insulate Your Attic” by Mickey Goodman
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/read-you-insulate-your-attic

4) Fiber Glass & Mineral Wool vs Cellulose Insulation: Comparing The Facts
https://insulationinstitute.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/FG_MW_vs_Cellulose_Final.pdf

https://www.forbes.com/advisor/home-improvement/attic-insulation-cost/

Types of Attic Insulation: A Helpful Guide

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on Types of Attic Insulation: A Helpful Guide

As the old adage goes, there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Attic roof insulation is no different- you have a multitude of options at your disposal. But choosing the right type of attic insulation installation for your home can be the difference between having enough money saved for summer vacation versus losing your summer fund to your energy bill.

Read on for our comprehensive list of the different types of attic insulation, the pros and cons of each, and which one is likeliest to keep your thermostat on an even keel.


What We Talk About When We Talk About Attic Insulation

Before you can go about comparing the many types of attic roof insulation, it’s essential to understand some of the lingo associated with insulation material.

The overall goal of adding insulation to your attic space is to trap heat and keep it from exiting your building. A material’s effectiveness in achieving that goal is referred to as its R-Value. 

The R-Value insulation that your attic should maintain depends on where you live and what the climate is like. Hot climates call for an R30, cold climates command an R49, and moderate climates like may settle near the middle. 


The Usual Suspects

Over the years, some forms of attic insulation have become more popular with homeowners due to myriad factors like R-Value, accessibility, durability, eco-friendliness and the ever-important estimation of “bang for your buck.”

Some of these go-to types of attic insulation include:


Fiberglass Batt Insulation

By far, the most frequently purchased type of attic insulation material is fiberglass, extremely delicate glass fibers that are comprised of recycled material and sand and look uncannily like cotton candy. The most common form that fiberglass insulation takes is in batts, large rolled-up sheets that are held together by an adhesive vapor barrier like reflective foil backing or paper.

 


Advantages of Fiberglass Batt Insulation

Fiberglass batts present some advantages, especially for new construction with attics that don’t have any prior insulation installed (as well as gut renovations). The upside for choosing fiberglass batts includes:

  • Moisture Resistance – Though fiberglass isn’t impervious to water, it does tend to resist moisture effectively. This makes it less vulnerable to the growth of mold and mildew.
  • Fire Resistance – Fiberglass is noncombustible, so you can rest easy if you have to install it next to your attic’s wooden structure.
  • Easy Installation – Batts are easy to pick up and unfurl. And due to their size, they can cover a lot of real estate in a pinch. This makes them a prime candidate for new construction as long as they are installed properly.


Other Types of Batts

For several decades now, fiberglass has reigned supreme as the top-selling insulation batt. But the following variety of batts have also been popular over the years:

  • Mineral Wool – Mineral wool is a natural fire barrier, so it would take a fire of 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit to make it burn. And it can continue to insulate even when it’s soaking wet. Mineral wool also makes a great sound blocker but unfortunately, it has been declining in traction and is very scarce these days.
  • Denim Insulation – Denim insulation is composed of—are you ready for a tidbit you weren’t expecting?—recycled blue jeans! It’s possible that the very pants you used to feature in your fashion rotation are now boosting your attic insulation. 

Denim insulation is becoming a sought-after choice among environmentally conscious consumers because of it’s environmentally friendly material. However, even though it may be popular for that reason, it is extremely expensive. 


Blown-in Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass also comes in the form of loose-fill insulation, tiny chunks packaged in large bags. These chunks get installed courtesy of a blowing machine that spreads the chunks to fill in necessary spaces. 

Though common perception stemming from a 1990’s study was that blown-in fiberglass loses R-value when in temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, this has since been proven to be false. 


Pros and Cons of Blown-in Fiberglass

Taking the blown insulation route with fiberglass can be a viable option for several reasons, such as:

  • Filling in the Cracks – Contrary to batts, blown-in insulation is perfect for filling in tight voids around wiring, pipes or any area with awkward framing.
  • It’s Cheap – You’d be hard-pressed to find a cheaper option than blown-in insulation. 

Even though blown-in fiberglass looks different from batts, it’s still the same material, which means it will carry with it the same flaws and potential safety hazards.


The Final Verdict on Blown-in Fiberglass

Blown-in fiberglass insulation may be the right choice for you if your attic fits the following description:

  • There’s pre-existing insulation that has left behind gaps
  • The joists are spaced irregularly throughout the area
  • There are several obstructions on the ground
  • There’s a low ceiling. Low-clearance attics aren’t conducive to the maneuvering required for installing batts. But even the
    tightest of crawl spaces will still have ample room for a blowing machine to prove effective


Blown-in Cellulose

Cellulose is made from pieces of newspaper that are shredded into extremely fine pieces. Even though this may seem like a very simple and cost-effective option, cellulose is only positioned this way because of it’s marketing over the years. Blown-in cellulose is probably the worst option for insulation based on more than a few reasons. Here are a few reasons why people think cellulose is a good option (but why it’s really not):

  • More Cost-Effective – Despite having a higher R-Value than most fiberglass, cellulose tends to be considerably cheaper. Generally speaking, blown-in cellulose will cost you up to 1/4th less than blown-in fiberglass. Even though cellulose is a very cost-effective option, it’s cheap for a reason…
  • Chemical Treatment – Blow-in cellulose manufacturers like to advertise that because cellulose is treated with boric acid, it will repel rodent and insect activity. This is simply not true. The effectiveness of the amount of boric acid that is in cellulose does almost nothing to prevent rodent and insect activity. This is again an act of marketing and has been instilled in customers heads by cellulose manufacturers for many years. 

It’s important to note that cellulose is designed to retain water and absorb moisture. This makes it a Valhalla for mold, mildew and potential rotting. To discourage this, all cellulose insulation must be accompanied by a vapor barrier.


The Final Verdict on Blown-in Cellulose

From a usage standpoint, blown-in cellulose can thrive in the same situations as blown-in fiberglass, however, there has been a lot of marketing behind false claims surrounding cellulose that make it a less than preferred option for attic insulation.


Spray Foam

As an insulator, nothing tops spray foam. It comes in two varieties—open-cell and closed-cell—the latter of which boasts an unrivaled R-Value of 7! The many distinct advantages of using spray foam insulation include:

  • Airtight Seals That Last – When applied, spray foam expands quickly and locks down air in a vault-like seal. And once it’s up, it’s staying. Whereas most insulation material needs to be replaced once every ten years or so, foam can remain at peak performance for several decades. You can essentially set it and forget it.
  • No Water Allowed – In the face of moisture, foam is basically anti-cellulose. It’s totally impermeable to water.
  • Expanding the Building Envelope – Foam is unique from all other insulation materials in that, when sprayed on your roofline, it has the capacity to expand your building envelope, or the physical space between its conditioned space (i.e. the space that people inhabit) and unconditioned space. 

Expanding your building envelope with spray foam also strengthens your building’s structure and even serves as a sound barricade to boot.

From a performance standpoint, one of the main downsides with spray foam is that, in a residential application, it hardens and cannot be removed. If you cover wiring, piping and other obstacles in the attic that then need in a later date some treatment, you will be unable to retrieve them. Apart from that, spray foam is also extremely expensive and thus mostly used in commercial buildings or vaulted ceilings, where you don’t actually have an attic. 


The Final Verdict on Spray Foam Insulation

There’s no doubt that spray foam is a franchise player when it comes to getting proper attic insulation. But like top athletes that demand max contracts, the spray can is going to cost you top dollar. And like some athletes, spray foam can be high-maintenance during the installation stage. Unless you’re a professional, it’s extremely difficult to install correctly and safely.

Still, spray foam will block airflow and leakage in an unparalleled fashion that helps you save money on your heating bill like no other insulator on the market. Thus, the higher upfront cost will eventually pay for itself.

 


The Replacements

While the above represent the most common types of attic insulation, there are other effective alternative methods worth mentioning, such as:

  • Rigid Foam Panels – These are panels specifically designed to slow the transfer of heat between studs in your attic’s joists. As their name suggests, they have a rigidity that makes them a breeze to cut to size.
  • Radiant Barriers – Although technically not an insulation, if you live in a particularly warm climate, radiant barriers could be the right choice for you. Whereas other insulators work to trap heat inside the home, these barriers are placed on the underside of roofing and padded with reflective material (like aluminum foil) to keep heat away from the house. This can be an excellent way to lower your home’s cooling costs.


At Attic Construction, We’re Here to Help

There are several different routes you can take for installing attic insulation, which unfortunately means there are countless ways to do it incorrectly. Thankfully, Attic Construction is here to help! 

As a highly rated provider of both insulation installation and insulation removal, we pride ourselves on working with you and your budget to make the process of insulating your attic hassle-free.

We are proud to offer the following insulation services at our locations:

Orange County Insulation Installation, Removal and Replacement

San Diego Insulation Installation, Removal and Replacement

Phoenix Insulation Installation, Removal and Replacement

Visit our website to schedule an appointment with one of our expert team members today!

Resources

1) “Batts, Blown or Sprayed? What’s the Best Attic Insulation?” by Allison Bailes
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/46480/Batts-Blown-or-Sprayed-What-s-the-Best-Attic-Insulation

2) “Attic Insulation Types” by Rueben Saltzman
https://www.constructionprotips.com/tools-materials/attic-insulation-types/

3) “Read This Before You Insulate Your Attic” by Mickey Goodman
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/read-you-insulate-your-attic

How Much Insulation Do I Need in my Attic?

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Attic Insulation, Insulation. No Comments on How Much Insulation Do I Need in my Attic?

All too often, air is exiting our attics without us even knowing. And as a result, money is rapidly exiting our bank accounts. When money goes to die on wasted energy, public enemy number one is usually not having the proper amount of insulation installed in the attic. Like many Americans, perhaps you’re asking yourself “how much insulation do I need in my attic?” 

Read on to find out.


The Telltale Signs That Your Insulation Needs Attention

A massive spike in your energy bill is typically a dead giveaway that your attic insulation requires immediate attention. But there are visual cues that can tip you off as well.

Take a look around your crawl space and see if you identify these telltale signs:

  • Dark Spots – When dark spots are splattered throughout your insulation material, that indicates one of two things, and neither is good news. Either your insulation has developed mold, or the spots are being created by consistent air leakage.
  • Shifting Cellulose – One of the flaws with loose-fill cellulose insulation is that it settles over time and, as a result, tends to shift toward the middle. If you notice that your cellulose has bunched up in the middle of a joist and left the outsides barren, redistribute the cellulose so that it’s evenly spread out.
  • Settling Fiberglass – Like cellulose, older fiberglass insulation manufactured in the past tends to settle as well. But when it does, instead of shifting, the dark pink “cotton candy look” it had when you first purchased it becomes a distant memory and fades into a shade of pink so dull it’s almost white.
  • Wetness – As soon as insulation gets wet, it’s useless. And that’s not the only problem: it’s also potentially hazardous, as wet insulation can trigger the release of harmful toxins (in the air). Replace wet or even damp insulation immediately and see if you can identify what caused it. Aside from the obvious of a recent flood, the moisture may have been caused by a blocked vent, leaky roof, or the absence of an effective vapor barrier.
  • Rodent Infestation – The most glaringly obvious sign that your insulation needs immediate replacement is when your batts are joined by bats or local rodents and critters have made your joists their local haunt. If this is the case, give the joists a thorough examination to ensure your uninvited “guests” didn’t leave behind any of their children or feces, and then pitch it ASAP.
  • Fluctuations in Your Home’s Temperature – Some signs won’t be visual ones, but rather you’ll be able to sense them. If you feel indoor drafts or drastic fluctuations in temperature, that’s usually a cry for help from your insulation. This can be a clear indication that your insulation needs to be checked for issues.


OK, Looks Like I Need New Insulation. How Do I Figure Out How Much I Need?

If you’ve encountered one or more of the above warning signs in your home, you can go in one of two directions:

  • In less severe cases, you can simply add to the insulation you already have in place
  • In dire cases, you can rip out the prior insulation and start from scratch with brand new insulation, fiberglass insulation

In either case, your next step will be to calculate your attic’s R-Value.


What on Earth is R-Value of Insulation?

Attic insulation R-Value is basically the effectiveness with which an insulator traps heat and keeps it in the room. The higher the R-value, the higher the effectiveness of the insulation. R-value is depending on a few things such as material, thickness, and density. 


How do I Know What R-Value my Attic Needs?

The Us Department of Energy has created this useful chart to help American homeowners decipher the R-Value they need to maintain in their attic. In general, the colder the climate where the house is located, the higher the R-Value in the attic needs to be.

Thus, most US states abide by the following R-Value recommendations:

  • Between R49 and R60 for cold climates, depending on the severity of the winter
  • About R38 for moderate climates
  • As low as R30 for hot climates

Deciding how much insulation your attic needs is a matter of knowing the R-Value of your insulation material and the total R-Value you need your attic to meet, then purchasing enough material to make the equation work. Keep in mind, if you’re adding to previously installed insulation, you’ll need to factor the R-Value of the old insulation materials into the equation as well.


Conclusion

Perhaps now you’re saying to yourself “this whole R-Value stuff is a bit more than I want to deal with.” Thankfully, at Attic Construction, we specialize in guiding you through every step of the installation or removal process for attic insulation.

Contact us today for help determining the R-Value you need to maintain in your home, and learn how we can help you get there!

Resources

1) “Batts, Blown or Sprayed? What’s the Best Attic Insulation?” by Allison Bailes
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/46480/Batts-Blown-or-Sprayed-What-s-the-Best-Attic-Insulation

2) “Attic Insulation Types” by Rueben Saltzman
https://www.constructionprotips.com/tools-materials/attic-insulation-types/

3) “Read This Before You Insulate Your Attic” by Mickey Goodman
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/read-you-insulate-your-attic

4) “Insulation” by the US Department of Energy
https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation

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